Mount Ridgway (S2), 13,468' (LiDAR 13,481'), Via Weehawken Trail

Essence: Mount Ridgway is a vertical mile above the trailhead and 6.2 miles on foot. Ascend 2,900 feet over 4.3 miles just to break out of the timber where the fun begins. Trail washouts and volcanic towers and exotic features on both sides of the Weehawken Creek gorge break up the tedium. Three stunning high basins and the east ridge finish make up for the ultra long approach. The summit affords an incomparable view of the north face of Mount Sneffles and neighboring peaks. Strong, swift hikers could conceivably climb Whitehouse Mountain from the shared saddle. The hike is within the Uncompahgre National Forest. Note: For hikers living in Ridgway or other surrounding communities, there are trip reports detailing a route that approaches both Mount Ridgway and Whitehouse Mountain from the north saving miles and total vertical.
Travel: From Ouray, drive south on US 550. At the first hairpin south of town, turn south on Camp Bird Road, signed County Road 361, Camp Bird Mine and Yankee Boy Basin. Measure distance from the junction. The 2WD gravel road has some potholes. Cross the Uncompahgre Gorge at 0.2 mile and drive southwest up Canyon Creek. Cross the river at 1.9 miles. Weehawken Trailhead parking is on the right at 2.6 miles, just before Thistledown Campground. There is room for three vehicles.

Distance and Elevation Gain: 12.4 miles; 5,300 feet  

Total Time: 8:00 to 10:30
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation challenging; Class 2+ with no exposure
Maps: Ironton; Ouray; Mount Sneffles, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quads
Latest Date Hiked: September 30, 2024
Quote: A journey of 1,000 miles begins with a single step. Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching

 

The summit of Mount Ridgway is revealed at last upon alighting on the saddle west of Point 13,150'. From there it is a playful 0.3 mile scamper up the east ridge to the crest, image-center-right.

 

Route: Hike northwest on the Weehawken Trail to its end. Ascend on a social trail southwest to timberline at 11,420 feet. Off-trail, hike north through two alpine basins to the Mount Ridgway-Whitehouse Mountain basin. Pitch northwest in an open gully to the saddle west of Point 13,150'. Climb the east ridge to the summit.

Personal Note: We summited Mount Ridgway on our second attempt. On September 5, 2024, we made it to elevation 12,100 feet before turning back. We hadn't allowed enough time, the weather threatened, and unable to get a visual on the summit, we were confused about navigation. On our second hike, the leaves had turned gold and the chance of precipitation was 3%. We got most unlucky. We came for the views but a graupel storm blew up on the summit ridge and surrounding peaks were shrouded in snow clouds. However, we did dial the route which I am pleased to share with you. Lamentably, we planned to return on the south ridge but the weather discouraged new exploration so we retraced our steps to the trailhead.

 

Weehawken Trail #206 begins down in the Canyon Creek corridor at elevation 8,740 feet and ends in 3.7 miles beside Weehawken Creek at elevation 10,760 feet. Judging from almost indecipherable overgrown tree blazes, the Weehawken is a very old trail. It sustains a pleasant grade and is well maintained. In fact, we spoke with a large Civilian Conservation Corps crew clearing felled trees, building log steps, and adding water drains. 

 

Please sign the trail register a few paces up the trail. The footpath switchbacks up the hillside bearing northwest and staying north of Weehawken Creek. Towering cliffs and walls enclose the gorge. Below, Point 12,578' is the grassy rise southeast of Canyon Creek. Thistledown Creek separates it from the crags extending north from Hayden Mountain. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

We ambled up through a mixed forest, light filtering through battery powered aspen. The Gambel oak had spun a variegated autumn tapestry. Droplets of water glistened on yellow leaves scattered on the slender, dirt path. 

(THW, photo)

Deer and elk hooves imprinted the trail but we saw little game and activated just one grouse.

At the conclusion of the first set of switchbacks, 1.6 miles, 9,900 feet, the trail to the Alpine Mine Trail Overlook splits off the Weehawken.

After the junction vegetation was growing in the path, suggesting a lot of hikers divert on the Alpine Mine Trail. The Weehawken essentially holds to the contour with some undulating. The thin trail platform is dug into the steep hillside, at times off camber.

At 1.9 miles, 10,160 feet, the trail was washed out by a significant side creek. Cairns guided across the mess and it was easily traversed, shown. We counted 28 side channels between here and trail's end in the first high basin. Let the obstacle course begin. We hopped easily across some. But others were ravines with great masses of boulders and vertical banks where torrents had bombed out the trail. The crossings slowed down progress in both directions. It's hard to make time on this trail. (THW, photo)

The tedium was interrupted by weathered volcanic pinnacles and spires on both sides of the creek. The striking monolith on the south wall of Weehawken Creek is Point 12,571'.

Pass by the trail to Weehawken Mine at 2.2 miles. The track switchbacks up to 10,400 feet, finally making some elevation. In this convoluted, wholly volcanic realm, it's easy to see why the trail is constantly obliterated.

Pass under a cluster of tall, free-standing needles while crossing a wide, braided channel at 3.5 miles. This is the marker for the approaching end of the Weehawken Trail.

At 3.6 miles, 10,760 feet, the trail divides at a large, stacked cairn, shown. The left thread terminates in a few yards at the creek. A wooden sign, "Weehawken Creek," marks the official end of the Weehawken Trail. For Mount Ridgway, double back to the big cairn and take the right branch at the split. The social trail is not engineered and there are some unmitigated steep pitches. We were happy to have the tertiary trail. We weren't climbing Ridgway without it. 

We crossed a running side stream at 3.9 miles, tucked tightly against a linear world.

The photo below was shot as we emerged from the woods. The trail is pressed under and against an immense volcanic wall bifurcated with countless chutes shedding water and rock.

 

The trail unceremoniously ended as we broke out into an immense and exquisite high alpine basin at 11,420 feet. The elation was immediate payback for the long slog through the timber. We'd already hiked 4.3 miles and climbed 2,900 feet. Craggy points 12,571' and 12,857' enclose the basin on the southeast rim.

 

A rock glacier extends into the center of the basin. It is material exfoliated from the northeast ridge of Potosi Peak, 13,793', image-center-left. 

Heading the basin is Coffeepot, image-center. On its right is the east ridge of Teakettle Mountain. The spire just visible, image-right, is the highpoint of Teakettle. Both peaks are fifth class and are typically climbed from Yankee Boy Basin. Even with topographical maps in hand and decent map reading skills, on our first trip we weren't sure what we were looking at or how to proceed to Ridgway which is not visible from this basin. Turns out, this is the first of three basins to be traversed on the way to Mount Ridgway. On our second, successful attempt we dialed the route. To start, stay on the right side of the drainage until you are just past the trees then curve on up to the north.

Climb the rounded ridge, image-center, and intercept a social trail at 4.7 miles, 11,860 feet. The trail is sporadic but useful.

Let the trail carry you to the rim of the second basin at 4.8 miles, 11,960 feet. Regardless of whether you are on the elusive trail, your next objective is to top the north rim of this basin at precisely 12,300 feet. Looking below, Whitehouse Mountain is image-right. You want to hit the ridge at about image-center.

The basin floor is split by a series of soft swales. Head them or simply cross them. The highpoint seen in this image isn't the crest of Ridgway but it is the first bump on the ridge south of the peak.

 

We gained the basin rim at 12,300 feet below weathered volcanic hoodoos. 

 

To the immediate north is Whitehouse Mountain, 13,500', climbed from the saddle east of Point 13,150'.

North of Whitehouse is Corbett Ridge, 13,107', typically climbed from the north.

The trail is exceedingly helpful contouring across a steep slope into the Ridgway-Whitehouse basin interior. 

 

Our plan was to follow Gerry Roach's suggestion and gain the east ridge west of Point 13,150' by pitching up the steep but open gully, shown.  

The social trail is headed for the Ridgway-Whitehouse saddle east of Point 13,150'. While you could mount the shallower gully, Roach cautions hikers to "avoid the pesky traverse of Point 13,150'." Rather, leave the trail at about 12,560 feet and consider how you will attack the open slide.

Our ascent route was pretty horrible but our descent route was infinitely easier and safer. Going up, the footing was good to start but then we were too far north, up against the wall. It was so steep, the rocks and me were at the angle of repose. I kept sliding downhill along with all the material and it took great power and strength (and nerve) to propel upward. 

Instead, from where the trail to Whitehouse splits, stay in the middle of the slide to the point of greatest constriction, shown. Then head for the south side of the gully and look for a wildcat track in the soft sandy soil. Butt up against the gray outcrop on the left. When the wall diminishes, mount the east ridge at the low point west of Point 13,150'.

We contacted the east ridge at 5.9 miles, 13,060 feet, having over-climbed the low point.

Deep into the hike, the summit is finally visible, image-center. The remaining 0.3 mile to the highpoint is pure pleasure on angular, stable talus. (THW, photo)

 There is a short, delightful interlude with big flat rocks.

Storm clouds gather over Reconnoiter Peak, 12,993'.

At 13,240 feet, we scooted left of a minor pink gendarme.

The weather blew up out of nowhere and we got pummeled with graupel. We took shelter at the base of the short cliffband encircling the summit. At first opportunity we located an easy, Class 2+ scramble on the south side.

We walked up the summit mound on small talus plates. 

 

Crest the flat, elongated Mount Ridgway summit at 6.2 miles after 5,200 feet of vertical. (THW, photo)

Mount Ridgway had been on my wish list for about 15 years. My primary desire was to see the north face of Mount Sneffles, 14,155', Colorado's 27th highest peak. While the view was shrouded, the scene was nevertheless surreal, even sublime. The chromatic field was, in painter Paul Cézanne's words, "The colours of things that rise up from the roots of the earth." Cirque Mountain, 13,692', was a wall of dusky violet. Its stilled rock glacier was folded in a fluid pigment of gray-green lichen. Tundra was cast in wrought iron and gold.

Our plan was to explore the south ridge, shown, and exit at the Teakettle Mountain 13,020-foot saddle. But the weather was even worse south of the peak so we headed back as we came. From the left are Potosi Peak, Coffeepot, and Teakettle Mountain.

I am tempted by Whitehouse Mountain and its tabletop that goes on forever. If we return, we'd likely approach the saddle east of Point 13,150' from the basin on the north.

Looking north across rippling yellow is Lake Otonawanda, the Uncompahgre River Gorge, the town of Ridgway, and Grand Mesa.

We returned to the saddle in front of Point 13,150'.

 

We descended in forgiving soil against the gray wall. There were no fresh footprints but there were clear signs of use.

We got back on the social trail and were amused by the classic upper basin boulder field. This is where all the big boys who exfoliated off Whitehouse hang out. (THW, photo)

We intersected the Ridgway-Whitehouse basin rim once again at 12,300 feet. (THW, photo)

The trail into the second basin comes and goes. We crossed the swales as before. The fierce and foreboding north faces of the peaks contrasted markedly with gentle slopes where soil and flora managed to take hold.

We located the trail once again as we rounded into the first basin. (THW, photo)

 

Counterintuitively, there is more red in the high alpine in the fall than in any other season. As royal blue gentian signal the end of summer, the scarlet leaves of alpine avens proclaim the advent of autumn.

 

This image was shot as we dropped into the first basin. It looks up at the Teakettle-Ridgway saddle, the escape route from the south ridge. It looks incredibly appealing. If you have the opportunity to explore the south ridge please leave a comment and tell us your story. (THW, photo)

Ulysses S. Grant Peak, 13,767' (LiDAR 13,778')

Essence: Ulysses S. Grant Peak is a raw-boned behemoth presenting a diversity of terrain and challenge for the climber. The standard southwest ridge route includes a 15-foot, Class 4 wall, a crumbling 60-foot-long ledge with catastrophic exposure, and an 80-foot chute filled with golf ball-size scree. Ranked 119 in Colorado, this bicentennial is composed of San Juan Explosive Volcanics--not exactly confidence inspiring. I have climbed "Grant" twice, each time with two other experienced mountaineers, the ideal group size. There are numerous trip reports from climbers who combined Grant with V4 and V2. Please see the cautionary note on the east ridge route later in this post. Everything about this loop as described is mythical--unraveling the route up a disordered mountain, the shimmering waters of Island Lake, ethereal blue Ice Lake, and the view of nearby peaks ringing the Ice Lake Basin. LiDAR has increased Grant's elevation to 13,778' with a rise of 734 feet. The hike is within the San Juan National Forest. The southwest ridge is on the boundary with the Uncompahgre National Forest.
Travel: From Silverton drive north on US 550 toward Ouray for two miles. At the sign for the South Mineral Campground, bear left onto a good dirt road. In 4.2 miles, park in a large lot on the right at the trailhead. There is a pit toilet but no water. The parking lot fills at dawn during the summer.

Distance and Elevation Gain: 9.0 miles; 4,100 feet. The Ice Lake loop adds 0.8 mile.
Total Time: 6:00 to 8:30
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation moderate; Class 4 with serious exposure; helmets recommended.
Map: Ophir, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quad
Latest Date Hiked: September 25, 2024 

Quote: Achieving the summit of a mountain was tangible, immutable, concrete. The incumbent hazards lent the activity a seriousness of purpose that was sorely missing from the rest of my life. I thrilled in the fresh perspective that came from tipping the ordinary plane of existence on end. Jon Krakauer, Into Thin Air

 

In my 2012 field notes, I described Ulysses S. Grant Peak as, "massive, spectacular, and scary." This image of the southwest ridge route shot from V4 in September of 2010 confirms that assessment. However, for climbers with a high tolerance for exposure and chossy rock, Grant offers an exhilarating, even joyful quest. (Thomas Holt Ward)

Route: Walk generally northwest on the Ice Lake Trail for 2.2 miles. Transition onto an unsigned footpath bearing northwest to Island Lake. Off-trail, ascend to the V4-Grant saddle. Pitch northeast to the summit with some assist from a braided social trail and periodic cairns. Return as you came. Or, near the Island Lake outlet, take the link trail to Ice Lake. From Ice Lake, hike on a popular, heavily trodden track back to the trailhead. 

 

There is a sign for the Ice Lake Trail at the northwest end of the parking lot at elevation 9,840 feet. I am assuming that if you are climbing Grant, you are intimately familiar with this trail so I won't belabor the initial description, described elsewhere in Earthline. At 0.9 mile I always leave the trail on a short, right spur to see the Clear Creek cascade, an important tributary of South Mineral Creek. (THW, photo)

Our hike in late September synced with iridescent autumn color, such a fleeting, ephemeral moment. (THW, photo)

 

Assuming Grant is not already under a mantle of snow, autumn is the ideal time for this hike. Monsoonal activity has waned leaving one free to relax into the hike, and the crowds visiting Ice Lake have gone home. (THW, photo) 

The trail enters a thick stand of mature conifers at 1.6 miles. In this forest the Hardrock 100 course comes in from the left and joins our route to Island Lake. At 2.2 miles, 11,420 feet, at the east end of Lower Ice Lake Basin, turn north on the secondary trail to Island Lake. Just a few years ago this unsigned juncture was faint and easy to miss. Now, it is pounded and impossible to overlook. The image below was taken from the start of the trail.

The track begins due north then turns briefly northeast to contour across a hillside under a cliff band. Once past this obstacle, the treadway switches due west. In the west, the geometric triumvirate that heads the Ice Lake Basin commands attention. Pictured are Fuller Peak, Vermilion Peak, and Golden Horn. Vermilion, 13,909' (LiDAR), is ranked 76th highest in Colorado.

Round a corner and take in the first look at guardian Grant. In mid-summer this scene is dominated by riotous wildflowers competing with Grant for attention. In late September, there are no flowers to distract. They have literally gone to seed and to sleep, and the earth is quieting down. The ground has a uniform golden red-rust cast that blends beautifully with the hue of the mountains. Only the sky and lakes contrast. The landscape is elemental and flawless.

Look across a shallow pond the color of autumn to problematic V4, and Grant. (THW, photo) 

 

Arrive at Island Lake at 3.4 miles, elevation 12,400 feet. Its waters are typically the clearest when summer rains have past. Below, notice the trail doing a rising traverse to Swamp Pass. From there, V2 is a quick jaunt to the east. 

(THW, photo) 

The southwest ridge climb to Grant begins from the 13,220-foot saddle, image-center. The ascent to the saddle is not as steep or as difficult as it appears.

Cross the lake outlet and pick a route that appeals to you for the half-mile, 820-foot climb. We went up toward the left side of the initial grassy mound and came down on the right near the inlet stream. But it matters little. (THW, photo) 

Stopping occasionally to gaze back at receding Island Lake is irresistible. (THW, photo) 

We were able to thread our way primarily on grass to the base of the headwall.

The last 300 feet are in softer, gravely soil--the perfect arena for plunge-stepping on the descent. 

Gain the V4-Grant saddle at 4.1 miles. There's a catch-your-breath westward view of the Wilson group of fourteeners. Snow on the north slope route to V4 ruled out climbing it this late in the year. (THW, photo) 

The summit of Grant is 0.4 mile away, with about 560 feet of vertical remaining. Get on the social trail and stay on it. There are a few braids so watch carefully for cairns at critical junctures.

 

Fractured rock is chossy throughout the climb.

Get a taste for exposure right away.  The loose rubble pile is complicated. The trail weaves back and forth dodging towers and small obstacles. (THW, photo) 

 

The scree is slippery but the danger factor is mitigated by a reasonable slope angle.

There are spectacular views all the way up the ridge. (THW, photo)

At about 13,400 feet we came to a series of stone mounds with several workable slots. We squeezed through one chute on our way up and another on our return. 

Cairns direct through this alleyway. 

Go through a gate with ten-foot towers on either side at about 13,620 feet. It precedes the 15-foot, Class 4 crux. Actually, there are three significant challenges from here to the summit that could be considered cruxes. Take your pick. The second, the deteriorating and exposed ledge, is visible in the image below. (THW, photo) 

This photo was shot on our return. It shows the gate with its perfectly human-sized opening. (THW, photo) 

 

I stashed my poles at the bottom of the wall and didn't wish for them for the remainder of the climb. Below, my son is preparing to mount the wall, calculating his moves.

 

The rock is stone solid. However, holds on the lower half are skimpy. The toe holds are especially meager and shallow.

Both hand and foot holds are more generous on the upper half. Watch your head when you reach the landing or you'll smash into the overhang! 

Descending, I needed a spot and I handed my pack off to my partner who was poised at the half way point. You may wish to carry a line. Caution, the crux landing is at a pinch in the ridge that falls off on either side. 

The long, suspended ledge traverse begins at the top of the wall. For me, this was the most dangerous part of the entire climb. A slip would be fatal. Pieces of the ledge have sloughed off since we were there in 2012. In fact, trip reports as recent as 2020 claim the ledge was comfortably wide. I know many seasoned climbers who wouldn't be phased, but my strategy was to never look down. Below, my partner is taking initial steps on the ledge. It's just wide enough for his boot.

In 2012, there was a pinch point where we did a step over thin air. The move was on the level and we hugged the wall. In 2024, material had exfoliated and there wasn't much to hang on to. Test all holds and watch out for ball bearing scree. (THW, photo) 

Once past the pinch, there is a decent sidewalk wrapping around to the access chute. The ledge was slightly easier to traverse on our way down the mountain. (THW, photo)

I call the third challenge Bubble Wrap Chute. The rocks pop right off the mountain! In 2012, I got into a thick stash of small, slippery scree and started spinning out. I couldn't regain traction and my partner had to give me an assist. This time, we put my son in charge of plotting the course up the 80-foot chute. He zigzagged, staying on clean surface rock. (THW, photo) 

I leaned into the mountain, trusted it would hold me, and had fun.

 

From the top of the chute the summit is a pleasant stroll away. (THW, photo)

Crest the generous Grant summit in 4.5 miles. The sweeping, full-circle panorama is spell-binding. The peak register placed by the Colorado Mountain Club had disappeared. It's becoming increasingly rare to find summit registers. I mourn the loss of the mountaineering tradition recording history, drawings, and sweet notes from kindred spirits. 

(THW, photo) 

I can't do justice to this terrific vantage point but I've included a few photos to give you an idea of where Grant sits in the greater landscape (and why we see it from seemingly everywhere). Looking westward, Yellow Mountain (mid-range in this photo) is an outstanding hike launched from the Waterfall Creek basin.  Asserting their mighty selves are Mount Wilson, Gladstone Peak, and Wilson Peak. Little Cone is behind the fourteeners on the right. And finally, the summit of V3 just comes into the frame on the right. 

To the south, Ice Lake is hidden by the southeast ridge of V4. I have several friends who have climbed V4 from the Ice Lake Basin and returned ashen faced having suffered from frequent rock avalanches. Fuller Lake is in the high basin below Fuller Peak. Golden Horn is hard to distinguish from Vermilion Peak (in this photo). Of that group, only Pilot Knob presents a technical challenge for the climber. With all those creative names in the region, I'm not sure why the bastion we were standing on was named for the 18th president of the United States. As commanding general, Grant led the Union Army to victory in the American Civil War in 1865. 

 

To the north, Swamp Canyon flushes into the Howard Fork above Ophir. The colorful variegated divide has several summits, including Silver Mountain, San Joaquin Ridge Summit, and Oscar's Peak at the top of Blixt Road. 

(THW, photo) 

And finally, in the immediate east is V2. The grey summit on its left is V5. You know it's a clear day when you can see the Rio Grande Pyramid on the other side of the Grenadier Range and Needle Mountains (image-center).

 

I promised a short discussion about descending on the east ridge of Grant, the shortcut route to Swamp Pass. I was on V2 a few weeks prior to this hike and watched in amazement as two climbers buzzed up the southwest ridge in less than 15 minutes. Then I watched their laborious, measured descent on the east ridge and it gave me the shivers. I got home and read some trip reports. One person turned back after an unsuccessful downclimb into the first deep notch, shown below. (South Lookout Peak is the dark gray technical summit on the left.)

 

In this telephoto image, the swift climbers are standing on the Grant summit before beginning their east ridge descent.  (THW, photo)

 

The west ridge of V2 affords a comprehensive view of the east ridge. Class 3? Class 5? Opinions are all over the board so do your research before embarking. (THW, photo) 

 

I have many friends who have climbed Grant and every one of them has been fooled by a classic "loose end" on their way down the southwest ridge. At about 13,560 feet (below the crux wall), we followed a pounded trail just a few feet east of our upcoming route. The trail stranded us at the top of a cliffed out gully with no escape. We quickly realized our mistake (it didn't look familiar), climbed out, and recovered the proper route.

 

Put off by the crowds, we hadn't been to Ice Lake in several years. Deep into autumn, the trails were quiet so we decided to divert on the path linking the two lakes. The loop adds just 0.8 mile with minimal elevation gain. 

(THW, photo) 

 

Abstract painter Vasily Kandinsky wrote, "The deeper the blue, the more it summons man into infinity, arousing his yearning for purity and ultimately transcendence. Blue is the typical celestial color. Blue very profoundly develops the element of calm."

We sat lazily by the shore of Ice Lake for a good long time, attempting to process the seemingly impossible color, and delighting in the completion of a climb that tipped, "...the ordinary plane of existence on end." (THW, photo)