Travel: US 95 runs between Yuma and Quartzsite. Nineteen miles south of Quartzsite at mile marker 85.3, turn east on signed Palm Canyon Road and measure from here. The road is graded gravel to the Palm Canyon Trailhead but for this hike you will need a 4WD vehicle with good clearance. You are looking at the west face of Signal Peak with its crenelated ridge. At 3.3 miles, enter the refuge and turn left at the sign for Kofa Queen Canyon. Make a sharp right at 4.1 miles. Bear left at a fork at 8.1 miles and descend into the wash. Do not attempt when the wash is running. There are some sharp rocks and deep gravel. At 11.1 miles, park on the right at the confluence with Ten Ewe Canyon.
Kofa National Wildlife Refuge: The refuge is located in the southwest quadrant of Arizona, between I-10 and I-8. The 666,640 acre refuge was established in 1939 for the protection of desert bighorn sheep and other native wildlife. Both the Kofa Mountains and Castle Dome Mountains are within the refuge and are further protected by the Kofa Refuge Wilderness. There are no fees or facilities. At-large camping is allowed--bring all the water you will need. The refuge is named for the King of Arizona gold mine which operated in King Valley between 1896 and 1910.
Distance and Elevation Gain: Roundtrip to Signal Peak is 3.8 miles with 2,100 feet of climbing. The out-and-back to Ten Ewe Mountain adds 1.2 miles and 600 feet of vertical.
Total Time: 3:30 to 4:30 for Signal. Add 1:30 to 2:00 for Ten Ewe.
Difficulty for Signal Peak: Trail; navigation moderate; Class 2 with very mild exposure.
Difficulty for Ten Ewe Mountain: Off trail; navigation challenging; Class 3; moderate exposure; long pants recommended. Consider your timing. It is likely to be scorching in the summer and possibly quite cold in winter.
Map: Palm Canyon, AZ 7.5' USGS Quad
Date Hiked: January 13, 2020
Quote: Give me silence, water, hope. Give me struggle, iron, volcanoes. Pablo Neruda
Signal Peak is a consolidated volcanic block. It rises from the desert floor, vibrant with ancient creosote bush, teddybear cholla, and saguaro.
Route: Walk on-trail southwest from the junction of Kofa Queen Canyon and Ten Ewe Canyon to Signal Peak. Return as you came. For those climbing off-trail to Ten Ewe Mountain, retreat on the trail to elevation 4,140 feet and climb east-southeast through complicated terrain to the zenith.
Signal Peak, 4,877'
Trip reports varied considerably and none mentioned the existence of a beautiful path from canyon bottom to summit. For those climbing both peaks, this affords an ideal combination of mellow, on-trail access and off-trail challenge. From the parking area at 2,840 feet, either start up Ten Ewe Canyon or walk up Kofa Queen Canyon a few yards to two metal posts and begin there. Braided trails will soon coalesce. Watch for cairns on the right side of the wash as you move upcanyon toward the fortress of Ten Ewe Mountain.
Notice the cave right of image-center. The trail ascends the second soft ridge left of the cave and then climbs the shaded headwall to the saddle at skyline. At half a mile the grade kicks up and trekking poles are helpful on the loose surface. Overall, the trail climbs 2,100 feet in 1.9 miles which is pretty dang steep.
Sonoran flora includes buckhorn and silver cholla, ocotillo, prickly pear with thick trunks, jojoba, robust agave, and ephedra. The geology of the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge is a typical volcanic mix of basalt, andesite, dacite, and rhyolite ("BADR"). This hike features a wonderland of astounding rhyolite forms that all want to be seen and acknowledged. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)
Bighorn sheep scat covered a grey platform on par with the cave and a dry fall at 0.7 mile.
The pitch steepens at 3,500 feet when the footpath starts up the headwall. The trail braids and you can either climb along the base of the reef on your left or move toward the center and play around on some Class 2+ rock. Reach a minor saddle at 1.0 mile, 3,880 feet. This image looks back on the notched rampart framing the headwall.
(THW, photo)
From the saddle, the trail contours left for 0.1 mile and then heads up the main drainage in Indian Canyon. In the image below, the trail is visible directly across from the saddle. (THW, photo)
Cross a sweet rock sheet with very mild exposure. (THW, photo)
At 1.3 miles, the trail turns northwest and climbs into a basin staying to the right of the triangular ridge terminus, shown.
For those climbing Ten Ewe Mountain, this is where that route diverges. Watch for a cairn off to the side of the main trail. (THW, photo)
Meanwhile, the Signal Peak trail climbs right up a pink bedrock watercourse. Walking on the raw stone is one of the best parts of the hike notable for its varied terrain.
Top out on a small ridge at 4,740 feet, 1.7 miles. To see Signal from here, move left a few paces. In this image it is center-left.
Crest the high point of the Kofa Mountains at 1.9 miles. The Kofa 2 Benchmark was placed on the roomy summit in 1949. The peak register dating to 2011 is inside a rather official looking ammo box. Judging from the entries, the mountain attracts international travelers. Someone undertakes this beautiful, pleasant hike every few days.
Looking west, Palm Canyon Road approaches the mountain. There is a technical route up Palm Canyon to Signal Peak as well as a long and arduous route up Four Palms Canyon.
The view southeast is mind-bending. The summit dome of Ten Ewe Mountain looks tame compared with the spire-topped, three-dimensional scalene triangles: Squaw Peak, Old Smokey Mountain, and Summit Peak. (THW, photo)
The twin summit to the northeast looked comparable in height so we walked over to it just to be sure. From there we dropped directly back to the trail.
Ten Ewe Mountain, 4,720'
This climb is recommended for experienced desert mountaineers. Descend on the upcoming trail for about 0.6 mile to 4,140 feet. There may be a cairn marking the departure place. For reference, it took us an hour and a half to do the 1.2 miles roundtrip. Ten Ewe has an estimated 580 feet of prominence.
The climb was delightful in part because it didn't appear to be possible (for me, anyway), and yet, we found a plausible, unexpected route. The way was revealed as we ascended. We saw few cairns on the climb but more magically materialized on the descent.
Overview: Leave the trail and walk south, dropping slightly into Indian Canyon. Walk upcanyon a short distance. Following the red line, ascend east up a bedrock drainage on the far side of the initial fin. Upon reaching a small saddle at 4,260 feet, turn southeast and climb up a 15 foot stone slide to get through a short wall. Contour around to the northeast and mount the crack behind the white escarpment. From the platform at the top of the crack, scramble southeast up a series of Class 3 ledges and emerge onto a platform. Scramble up the north side of the summit dome. There are reportedly other much more difficult descent routes but we opted to come back the same way.
In this image shot on the descent, I am emerging from the leftmost crack behind the white rib. (THW, photo)
The crack pinches to shoulder-width near the top. Textured rock made all the difference.
Next, work your way up a series of Class 3 ledges on the northwest face. We swung back and forth looking for safe scrambling routes. Exposure is moderate.
Break out onto a slope with small talus and decent-enough footing. This lifts you to the big and broad platform below the summit. The final 80-foot scramble is low Class 3 on bedrock and chipped material. (THW, photo)
The top of Ten Ewe Mountain is quite small but the feeling of incredulous accomplishment is big. (THW, photo)
Signal Peak looks massive from the perspective of Ten Ewe Mountain. Strikingly similar in composition, the two peaks provide sharply contrasting encounters, enhancing the allure of both. (THW, photo)
Palm Canyon Trail
The highly unusual grove of relic California fan palms located in Palm Canyon are native to Arizona. To see them, drive back out the Kofa Queen Canyon Road and turn left on Palm Canyon Road. Drive 3.9 miles to the trailhead parking lot, elevation 2,120 feet.
Ascend for half a mile on the National Recreation Trail. The trees are a little difficult to spot so watch for the sign pointing to the "PALMS." (THW, photo)
It is possible to do a crack climb up to the palms. From the end of the trail, locate a social trail that crosses the canyon. There are two slots on either side of a fin, image-center. Climb the crack on the right. It is low Class 3 with solid holds, narrowing to hip-width. At 2,680 feet, the slot opens and you can explore the grove. Roundtrip from the parking lot is 1.3 miles with 560 feet of vertical.
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