Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Oracle Ridge Trail: Santa Catalina Mountains

Essence: Follow John and Sara Lemmon's 1880s ridge route to their namesake mountain, leaving the trail to climb Marble, Rice, and Apache Peaks. Easy walking through elevated country with unobstructed panoramas and abundant, trailside plant life. Trail #1 is infrequently traversed, yet essential for those who love the Catalina Mountains and consider them home.
Travel: From Tucson, go north on Hwy 77 to American Ave. in Oracle. Traveling east through town, bear right on the Mt. Lemmon Hwy, and continue, eventually on dirt, to a sign for the Arizona Trail. Turn right on American Flag Ranch Road. Drop a vehicle near the historic corral at the base of Cody Trail #9. Proceed back through Tucson and drive up the Catalina Highway. At mileage marker 24.5, just past Loma Linda, turn right at the sign for Old Mt. Lemmon Road, also known as Control Road #38. The Oracle Ridge Trailhead is past the fire station. Total shuttle time: 6 hours on a good day. Note: We hoped to take the Control Road back to our vehicle at the end of the hike but it is closed in the winter; check the dates.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 16.4 miles; 3,332 feet net loss, 2,350 feet total climbing
Time: 8:00 to 9:30
Difficulty: Trail and 4WD roads with three optional off-trail climbs; navigation easy but pay attention; no exposure.
Maps: Green Trails Map of the Santa Catalina Mountains #2886S, and/or the following 7.5' Quads: Mt. Lemmon, Mount Bigelow, Oracle, Campo Bonito
Date Hiked: February 11, 2014
Quote: For me, nature, wet or dry, furnishes the most cheerful as well as the most intelligible context for thinking and living and being. Joseph Wood Krutch
Map: The hike begins from the Oracle Ridge Trailhead on Mt. Lemmon and heads north and essentially downhill to the trailhead at American Flag Ranch southeast of the town of Oracle.
Route: This trek should be impossible in February but the winter of 2014 was warm and dry, the ground free of snow at 7,760 feet. On a sunny, 35 degree morning, we contoured around the west side of Pt. 8,077' and quickly gained the ridge. While the trail wanders periodically off-ridge to the east or west, for the first 1.5 miles to Stratton Saddle, it resides on the topline. The spine is just narrow enough to feel like a ridge but never once is it overly constricted. Here, lifting our eyes above the most appealing array of early morning grasses we viewed the Reef of Rock and Samaniego Ridge in the west. (See the end of this post for a note on Reef of Rock.)

There are three named peaks on the ridgeline, or just off the east side, each with unique, beguiling characteristics. The southernmost is Marble Peak, 7,654', which tops an eastern spur. It adds one mile and about 300 feet of climbing, well worth it. Stay on the trail past Stratton Saddle, going west of two knobs graced with milky white stone. The trail meets up with a 4WD road. Open the gate and walk east on the road, leaving it shortly to attain the west ridge of Marble. 

The peak is comprised of glistening grey-white, sharp edged stone. From the summit is a clear look at Mt. Lemmon, Pt. 8,077', and the spine south of Stratton Saddle.

Back on the ridgetop, we are in the ideal biozone for the impeccable blue agave. Is there any plant on Earth so symmetrical and free of imperfection? We travel beside them until we are well past Rice Peak, stopping frequently to delight in their blue-grey color and translucent maroon tips. (THW photo).

Shortly before reaching Dan Saddle at 6,880 feet, we intersect the Arizona Trail. We will remain with this well-marked route to the end of our hike. Tiny glinting flashes mark passage across the state. At the saddle, southbound thru-hikers head west to Catalina Camp but we continue due north.

The trail climbs about 600 feet through a youthful oak and juniper forest, staying to the west of Pt. 7,850' (approx.) and 7,693'. Just before dropping to the low point south of Rice Peak, the path is lined with playful conglomerate, sheared and colorful. Polka Dot Hill!

The Oracle Ridge Trail overlaps sporadically with 4WD roads. At the base of Rice Peak we join one and will stay with it for another mile. As soon as these three Jeeps cleared out, we left the official treadway and walked steeply up the road, adding a half mile roundtrip and about 200 feet to our day.

Rice Peak, 7,575', is covered in lumps of conglomerate that forever enjoy a view back to our ridge, Pt. 7,693', and Mt. Lemmon. (THW, photo)

Despite the up and down across the miles, Rice Peak is only about 200 feet below our starting point. However, past Rice, we drop almost 1,700 feet before climbing Apache Peak. The miles clip off swiftly as we journey through the homeland of green agave and skim the tops of multiple golden hillocks. In the 2003 Aspen Fire, this entire region was burned and while magnificent trees three feet in diameter were tragically lost, fanciful shinny grey trunks and twiggy limb tips of the alligator juniper remain beautiful.

Our path skirts Pt. 6,219' to its west, then drops to a base point beneath the looming southwest face of Apache Peak. It must be climbed! While it is only 450 feet up the steep slope, we opt for an alternative approach because of the near vertical, crumbly cliff band at the top. Staying on the trail until it reached the north ridge, we began our 590 foot ascent, adding one mile to our total. We climbed the pitch, dodging brush, staying just west of the ridge. Within 200 feet of the summit, the rib narrows and chunky pink talus affords fun climbing. From the 6,441' crest, the spacey Biosphere 2 is juxtaposed with the jutting weirdness of Picacho Peak.

Back on the trail, it was mostly downhill for a mile through yet more appealing country until we joined up with the 4WD road coming in on the right from Bonito. It is another mile on the road to the junction with Cody Trail #9 at 5,360 feet. The sign is informative. If we had not climbed the three peaks, we'd be 10.2 miles from the upper start of the ridge trail. Our original intention was to park on the Cody Loop Road which would mean walking the 2.6 miles to Oracle. But when we did our vehicle drop the evening before, that trailhead was nowhere to be found. Therefore, we turned east at this sign and took Cody Trail #9 another 3.7 miles, staying with the Arizona Trail.

Crews recently worked the entire trail segment from Apache Peak to the Control Road. They achieved both beauty and functionality. The trail was smooth and fast, allowing us to do this final stretch in one hour. The trackway descends to 4,528 feet, winding up a bit, down a lot, and all around, so pleasing and peaceful wending through spheroidal boulders, the low sun enhancing the color of winter grass (THW, photo).

In this image all three peaks are visible. From the right: Apache, Rice, and Marble.

The end of our trail was marked by an historic corral at American Flag Ranch, established in the 1870's.

Our superior hike was every bit as perfect as the blue agaves informing our way.

Note on Reef of Rock: Forever curious about this formation, in December of 2021, we did an exploratory hike on the Reef. We soon entered a magnificent community of humongous boulders. We did an ultra fun Class 2+ scramble up Point 8,012' (image-left). The ridge got technical at 1.0 mile, 7,700 feet (far end of the middle cluster seen below), and we elected to turn around prior to our hoped for goal of Point 6,795'.

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Bassett Peak, 7,663': Galiuro Mountains

Essence: Summit the highpoint of the Galiuros, one of Arizona's more isolated sky islands, renowned for autumnal foliage and fanciful rock formations.
Travel: Three hours from Tucson. Take I-10 east to Exit 336 in Willcox. Head north on Taylor Road 4 miles until it becomes Fort Grant Road. The road bends and the names change but just stay on pavement heading primarily north for 31 miles to aptly named Bonita. At the Bonita Elementary School, go left/west on High Creek Road, a smooth and straight, flat and fast dirt road. The road turns south in 13.6 miles at Sunset Loop Road. Go 3.5 miles to FR 660. Turn right and follow the high clearance track about 3 miles to a circular parking area, taking the right spur at 1.1 miles. The TH sign is just beyond the parking area. We parked .75 mile before the TH at about 5,000 feet and our hiking mileage reflects that addition.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 12.5 miles, 2,800 feet of climbing
Time: 6:00 to 7:00
Difficulty: 4WD road tapers to trail; easy navigation with trail signs; no exposure.
Map: Bassett Peak, AZ, 7.5 Quad
Date Hiked: February 8, 2014
Quote: If you truly love Nature, you will find beauty everywhere.  Vincent Van Gogh 

Route: Yes, it is a long schlep from Tucson, but driving north through the Sulphur Springs Valley is a positive prelude to the hike. The valley is cradled between the Galiuro and the Pinaleno ranges and bifurcated by waters coming through Aravaipa Canyon. West of Bonita is a substantial soaptree yucca stand. The beginning of the trail is marked by a weathered sign. It is 4.1 miles from the trailhead to the junction with the East Divide Trail which traverses the range. The Bassett Peak Trail utilizes a portion of the EDT.

From the TH, it is a 25 minute stroll to Lower Ash Spring on an ATV two-track. The pathway stays in or beside Ash Creek under a thick forest of towering conifers and oaks presiding over moss and lichen covered boulders
(THW, photo).

The lower spring is notable for two picturesque, historic water tanks, now empty. Coiled before them is black piping that extends to the upper spring. One could stay on course by simply following the pipe.

Another gentle grade mile flies by to the wilderness boundary sign. Here the route constricts to a footpath, turning left at a west tributary of Ash Creek. About 500 feet is gained over half a mile but it seems truly effortless. For here we are amazed by the maples that boarder our leaf covered trail. While these leaves have had their day, they still cling to speak of autumn splendor in mid-winter.

At Upper Ash Spring we are startled by a mature grove of aspen. Clearly, fall is the ideal season for this hike. Alas, we may only imagine lusty red maple, rusty orange oak, and sunny yellow aspen. The track leaves the dry spring to switchback up 600 feet to the eastern spur of Pt 6,996'. Manzanita and pinion predominate and practically take over the trail on the south facing slope. Bassett Peak comes into view as well as the ridge we will soon traverse (THW, photo).

Prior to the lateral spine is a wedge of rock with a balanced feature creating a window. From this ridge we can see the principal divide, broken and dotted with high points, all the way to Sunset Peak seven miles to the north.

The trail takes aim directly for the east wall of Pt 6,996', veering left just in time, and pressing up a weakness in the cliffs to gain the north/south running divide that defines the Galiuro range. There are two seasoned trail signs. Judging from the elaborate engineering that characterizes the route, it is likely this ambitious treadway was created by the CCC in the 1930's. My friend wonders why they built a trail to the, "backside of nowhere." Regardless, we are grateful, for bushwhacking up Bassett would be a gigantic chore. From the junction, it is 1.4 miles and 800 feet of gain to the summit.

The Galiuros are volcanic with some sedimentary layering. The range is known for fantastical formations made from thick, welded tuffs of volcanic rock.

For almost a mile, the track stays to the west of the rock towers that decorate the ridgetop, with one foray to the east side. This affords a look back on the zigzag coming out of Ash Creek, and Sunset Peak afar.

The ridge is abundant with blue agaves that delight us with their beautiful, symmetrical perfection (THW, photo).

The trail switches up the north side of Bassett, gradually ascending across the high angled, gravelly slope. Sloughing debris is obliterating the trail, compromising the thin track which, on this day in February, had a slick layer of snow. The winter of 2014 is warm and dry; normally Bassett Peak is off-limits this time of year.

We allowed the path to simply draw us onto Bassett's southern ridge. There, we left the EDT and, turning sharply north, thrashed our way through a tangle of beargrass, pinon, and manzanita for five minutes and 150 feet to the summit. The crest was void of footprints but it enjoyed the company of swarms of ladybugs.  Looking west we could see familiar mountainous friends in the Catalinas and Rincons, and even Baboquivari 92 miles away.

In the east is the Mt. Graham observatory cresting the Pinalenos and sailing 6,000 feet above the Sulphur Springs Valley. 

Close by to the southwest are the ripply shadowy Winchesters and well beyond them, Dos Cabezas.

We scampered back to our junction on the EDT. I have never seen trail signs this charming.

The sun, low in the sky, lit up rock fins that stand guard above the venerable aspen grove.

Bassett Peak is easy to spot from the Catalina Mountains. We long wondered of its secrets, but hesitated because of the commute. As it happens, the drive had its own pleasures and the mountain, intimate now, revealed so much more than we could imagine.

Not to have known--as most men have not--either the mountain or the desert is not to have known one's self. Not to have known one's self is to have known no one. Joseph Wood Krutch