Lone Cone, 12,613', Westernmost Peak in the San Juan Mountains

Essence: The name says it all—Lone Cone stands apart. Distinctly shaped and the westernmost peak in the San Juan Mountains, it is easily identified from a hundred miles away. The land surrounding the solitary cone is covered with historic ranches and hay meadows. This is a climb for experienced talus fanciers. Mount a stone stairway to a conical zenith. The boundary of the Uncompahgre and San Juan national forests as well as the San Miguel and Dolores county lines runs up the north ridge, over the summit, and down the southeast ridge. This is a half-day hike but the drive makes it an all-day proposition. LiDAR has increased the elevation of the summit by a few feet to 12,619’ with a rise of 2,262 feet.
Travel: Instructions from the intersection of FSR 611 and M44 (aka Beef Trail Road) are all the same. There are three ways to get to that common junction. From there you will need a 4WD vehicle with high clearance and sturdy tires. Reset your odometer and turn south toward the mountain. Enter the Uncompahgre National Forest at 2.1 miles. Stay straight at 2.3 miles. At 5.0 miles, bear right on West Beaver Road (avoid Beaver Park Road). At 6.7 miles turn right on FSR 612. The dirt road is rocky, rough, narrow, and prone to deep ruts and mud. The trailhead is marked with a Forest Service multi-use sign at 11.0 miles. There is parking on both sides of the road.
     From Norwood, drive 1.5 miles east on CO 145 and turn south on CR 44Z, Lone Cone Road, and measure distance from there. The paved road turns to gravel at 10.6 miles where it crosses the US Forest Service Boundary and becomes FSR 610. At 12.0 miles, turn left/east on M44. At 14.5 miles reach FSR 611.
    From CO 145 in Dolores, turn north on 11th Street (CR 31). This becomes the old Dolores-Norwood Road (and eventually CR 44Z). Drive 45.8 miles to M44. Turn right and go 2.5 miles to FSR 611.
    From Placerville, drive north on CO 145 for 0.5 mile to the T intersection and turn left, staying on CO 145. Continue 3.0 miles and turn left on M44 (Specie Creek Road). Follow M44 for 13 miles to FSR 611. Along the way, the road will change names twice, ending up as Beef Trail Road.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 5.0 miles; 2,100 feet
Time: 3:30 to 5:00
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation moderate; Class 2+ on talus; no exposure
Maps: Beaver Park; Lone Cone, Colorado 7.5 USGS Quads
Latest Date Hiked: August 27, 2026
Reference: For the challenging, northeast ridge scramble, consult: Colorado Scrambles: Climbs Beyond the Beaten Path, Dave Cooper, Colorado Mountain Club. 
Quote: The path of the axis, in an ascending direction, therefore indicates the path of escape from the massive compression and diffuseness of the base towards the concentration and unrestricted freedom of the apex. Marco Pallis

The northface of Lone Cone has a powerful gleaming presence when crossing Devils Chair.

 

Route: While maps do not depict a trail, there is a strong track from the trailhead to Devils Chair. Ascend south-southwest, passing west of Point 11,230’. Begin mounting the northeast ridge of Lone Cone. At 11,540 feet, cut west and cross the rock glacier. Gain the north ridge and follow it to the summit.

 

A juniper log fence post, a simple sign indicating FSR 611, and the destination of our quest, are all present where routes from three compass points converge at the common intersection of M44 and FSR 611. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

 

The unlabeled trailhead, elevation 10,800 feet, is marked by a multi-use signpost. The trail is open to hikers and equestrians.

Walk southwest on a closed two-track for 0.25 mile. The Lone Cone trail departs from the abandoned road and bears south. The perfectly good undocumented trail gently climbs the rounded ridge. My partner and I led a small group associated with a Durango hiking club in 2026.

Views of Lone Cone are intermittent between the trees. For a full-throttle vantage point watch for a thin path departing from the trail at 0.7 mile.

 

Pass just west of Point 11,230' and come to a small saddle composed of shale at 0.9 mile. The footpath meanders some while holding to the ridge, gently climbing another 400 feet through timber dominated by Engelmann and blue spruce.

In 2015, we traipsed through a riot of lavender flowers hemming the trail. In 2026, blooming flowers were largely absent.

At 11,540 feet, emerge from the forest on the northeast shoulder of the mountain. The peak's disordered raggedness and the interplay of granitescape and luminescence is enrapturing. There, the standard route departs from the scrambler's route which continues up the northeast taper. 

The path holds the contour while curving southwest to abut the east side of Devils Chair. 

At 1.6 miles, arrive at the edge of the rock glacier. Three-foot-tall cairns on top of the embankment help locate a couple of wildcat trails pitching onto Devils Chair. 

 

Create your own course while crossing the 0.3 mile glacier. I like to meander, paying visits to fractured igneous blocks that appeal to me. The mountain flakes off huge chunks to cleave polished, concave faces glistening in the sun.  Despite the chaos, I feel embraced within the arms of the mountain. In 2015, the scene was utterly silent; in 2003, the distinctive sound of water running under stone enhanced the experience.

 

Maintain approximate elevation, reaching the other side at about 11,600 feet. Off-trail, climb a short, comfortable pitch to the north ridge. (THW, photo)

 

Stunted spruce doing their krummholz thing, spread out over the ground.

 

A subtle social trail ascends a shale surface with talus floaters. 

 

In 2015, dotted saxifrage and clusters of little gentian augmented the rock.  

 

The dwindling trail disappears into a blockfield at 11,880 feet. 

Freeze-thaw has sliced stones according to their fine-grained crystalline structure. Flat plates create a stairway. Some teeter-totter. This is heaven for talus enthusiasts. 

The ridge is never too steep or exposed. (THW, photo) 

 

My partner is leading and I'm the sweep. The faster members of our group can be seen on the ridgeline near the crest. 

 

An interior ridge with a distinctive notch runs alongside the climbing ridge. The gap is clearly visible from the road leading to the trailhead. 

 

Reach the zenith at 2.5 miles. The apex is just roomy enough with good sitting rocks. (THW, photo)

After a couple of decades with no peak register on this exceptional mountain, there was a weather-proof one in 2026. (THW, photo)

We couldn't locate the benchmark but we did find a reference mark placed in 1958. Curiously, it appears that the number two is stamped over a five. (THW, photo) 

Spin on top of Lone Cone and you'll see more mountains than mere mortals can climb in one life. Looking east, the Dolores Peak trio are in the foreground with the Wilson Group looking over their tops. Wildfires have compromised visibility all summer long. I couldn't quite make out Grand Mesa and the West Elks, but on the far horizon where it gets really busy we could span from Mount Sneffels to Uncompahgre Peak and beyond. 

In the western quadrant locate the La Sal Mountains, shown, Paradox Valley, the Abajo Mountains, Sleeping Ute Mountain, and even Shiprock on a crystal clear day. 

 

Groundhog Mountain is featured in this photo looking southeast. Next, are the Rico Mountains and the La Plata Mountains are on the horizon-center. 

 

Get a good look at the northeast ridge scramble from the summit. Climbers who ascend this ridge take the standard route down.

Return as you came. The image below gives an overview of the entire route.

The rocks on the upper half of the mountain are extrusive igneous volcanics. However, despite its conical appearance, Lone Cone is not a volcano. (THW, photo)

In 2015, we returned on a different route to see more of the mountain. This route might appeal to navigation savvy hikers. Continue down the north ridge through elk habitat to 11,500 feet. Do a descending traverse through scattered trees to the drainage west of Devils Chair at 11,200 feet. The glacier takes a precipitous dive below this elevation. Climb the embankment onto the open rock. The mass folds in waves; big fellows are on the move. You will need to get close to the toe of the glacier to negotiate the steep wall on the east side. Don't drop any lower than 11,100 feet. The image below looks back on the north ridge. Walk east, wading through arrowleaf senecio and delphinium, clambering over deadfall. Skirt the top of a secondary drainage and then climb 200 feet to rejoin the standard trail just south of Point 11,230'.

Starting out in 2026, we met a woman living in Norwood. Lone Cone is her home mountain and she climbs it frequently. Norwood is the closest thriving community and even then, it is a 1:15 commute to the trailhead. Having grown up in the West, I'm right at home in cattle country. If you would like to learn more about ranch life in the early 1900s, please read One Man's West by David Lavender. Below, Lone Cone is weighed down by rain-bearing clouds. This image was snapped from M44.

The west ridge of Lone Cone is visible from the old Dolores-Norwood Road.

  

Many of us look at Lone Cone from far and wide for decades before we climb this remote peak. From miles away, it is a regal place keeper. Up close, it is home ground.

Vermilion Peak, 13,894', and Fuller Peak,13,761'

Essence: Hike a beloved, flowerful trail to fantastically blue Ice Lake. From there a social trail ascends to a high basin talus wall. After a long and tough approach, the route splits at a 13,500 foot saddle to offer a varied choice. Scale challenging and venerable Vermilion Peak or merely walk up Fuller Peak. Both options are described. 2023 Note: Based on new, more accurate measurement technology LiDAR, Vermilion Peak has been elevated to 13,909 feet with a rise of 2,105 feet. Fuller Peak's elevation has been increased to 13,777 feet with a rise of 261 feet.
Travel: From Durango, drive north on US 550 about 47 miles to Silverton. Continue north toward Ouray for 2.0 miles. At the sign for the South Mineral Campground, bear left onto a good dirt road. In 4.2 miles, park in a large lot on the right at the trailhead. There is an outhouse but no water. Allow 1:15 from Durango.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 12.3 miles, 4,500 feet of climbing for both peaks; Fuller Peak alone is 11.5 miles with 4,100 feet of vertical
Time: 7:00 to 9:00
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation moderate; Fuller Peak is "just a walk" with no exposure; Vermilion Peak is Class 2+ with considerable exposure
Map: Ophir, Colorado 7.5 Quad
Latest Date Hiked: September 22, 2021
Reference: For a thorough description of Vermilion routes, see Gerry and Jennifer Roach, Colorado's Thirteeners 13,800 to 13,999 Feet: From Hikes to Climbs, 2001.
Quote: Vermilion means "flame-red," and the name fits this colorful peak. Vermilion's rosy rock is pretty to look at, but rotten to climb on. Vermilion's standard routes are a reasonable tour, but you should always treat Vermilion with respect. Gerry Roach

Indomitable Vermilion Peak is flanked by pyramidal Fuller Peak, Golden Horn's northeast ridge in the foreground, and Pilot Knob. Ice Lake doubles the power of mountain and sky.

Route: From the Ice Lake Trailhead, across from South Mineral Campground, hike on a popular, well-maintained trail to Ice Lake Basin. On a social trail, gain the bench northwest of Fuller Lake. Zigzag up a steep talus slope to Saddle 13,500'. The route splits. Northwest is Vermilion Peak; southeast is Fuller Peak. 

The Ice Lake Trail is well-documented and illustrated in Earthline. Please see Golden Horn or Ice Lake and Island Lake Loop for details.
 

From Trailhead 9,840', hike through a thick conifer and aspen forest with intermittent sunny glades to Lower Ice Lake Basin at 2.2 miles, 11,460 feet. Fuller, Vermilion, and Golden Horn appear at crestline.

The raw beauty, clarity, and mystery of Ice Lake astonishes at 3.6 miles, 12,257 feet. (THW, photo)

The generous trail necks down to a standard single track on its way to Fuller Lake. Walk along the southwest shore of Ice Lake. At 3.8 miles pass a polished mirror pond.

Thread between Parry's primrose and cross the Fuller Lake outlet at 4.1 miles, 12,560 feet. In a few steps, look for cairns off to the right. Leave the trail and ascend onto the southwest-running bench, image-right. Once you are up there, cairns and a barely decipherable use trail make walking easier as the tundra gives way to stone. (THW, photo)

Follow cairns off the bench to the right at 4.7 miles. The image below shows the saddle between Vermilion and Golden Horn. Save that for another wondrous day and wrap around the rocky slope at left.

The saddle between Fuller and Vermilion is infinitely easier to access if you locate the scrabbly, tightly wound switchbacks, seen below. The trail materializes at 13,100 feet.

It is a bit of a slog to attain Saddle 13,500' at 5.4 miles, after 3,700 feet of climbing. One of the finest features of this hike is that you now have a choice. You may merely walk to Fuller Peak, or, you may climb Vermilion which is an indisputable challenge. This description begins with Vermilion and then continues over to Fuller.

Vermilion Peak, 13,894': Vermilion is a centennial peak, ranked number 74 in Colorado. It is 0.4 mile from the saddle and will take 30 to 40 minutes to scale. The standard route utilizes the southeast ridge. Locate the subtle wildcat trail that leaves the saddle and starts up the ridge. The ridge is armored with a series of blocky towers. The peak, shown, is the champion block.

The trail soon veers to the northwest/left to bypass obstacles on the spine. The mountain is comprised of exfoliating San Juan volcanics, crumbly and loose. At first the sufficient trail platform mutes the drop-away exposure.

The trackway grows increasingly narrow and is crowded by the buttresses on the high/right side. Make two airy moves around encroaching cliffs. The footpath is deteriorating and one day will disappear. As a friend said, this is a use trail--we have left the security of the maintained Ice Lake trail well behind. In the image below, the threadway ends at the couloir, image-center.

The couloir is a dirt chute that bisects a notch in the ridge southeast of the summit block. Enter and steeply scale 100 feet of vertical. The danger factor varies in this effectively bottomless couloir. In 2007, the gully was augmented with debris, the soil moist, and the exposure seemed inconsequential. In 2015, the floor was scoured clean, the soil dry and resistant. The exposure had increased significantly.  Good hand holds can be found on the south wall but they require careful selection; some of the rock is not well seated. Use the minimum pull required to maintain friction with your feet. It is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced. I have friends who have successfully climbed the south wall rib, staying out of the couloir. 

Upon gaining the ridge, another 100 feet of relatively easy clambering to the west summit awaits. Traverse a two foot wide, 40 foot bridge. Clearly, I am having fun in the exhilarating moments before arriving at the zenith at 5.8 miles. (THW, photo)

The airy summit perch accommodates a handful of people.

Views from the peak are as beautiful and colorful as the name implies. Looking south are Golden Horn, Pilot Knob, and Ice Lake.  (THW, photo)

West is Rolling Mountain, Grizzly Peak, San Miguel Peak, and the Wilson Group. (THW, photo)

The image below gives an overview of the trail back to the saddle. Find the couloir and the thin footpath at the base of the cliffs.   

Fuller Peak, 13,761': The "Picnic Summit" is just 0.3 mile from Saddle 13,500' with 261 feet of vertical. The route is free of obstacles and takes 10 to 15 minutes. It truly is just a walk. Take the trail which strides along the top of ridge or just to the side. (THW, photo)

Climbers who ascend Vermilion first will reach Fuller Peak at 6.5 miles. It has a wonderfully long, flat summit. Fuller is a peak for everyone to enjoy. (THW, photo)

Here is just a tiny wedge of the engaging view. Pilot Knob and Golden Horn are on the left, Fuller Lake is center-right, and Ice Lake is the outrageous blue dot smack in the center. (THW, photo)

Returning to the saddle renders astonishing looks at rugged Vermilion. Listen for the distinctive sound of water running under rock in the upper basin.

The bench affords a classic view of Ice Lake. Soaring above the basin are V4, Ulysses S. Grant Peak, and V2. The trail to Island Lake is easy to spot if that temps you.

A word about weather. Ice Lake Basin is a gathering place for drenching rain, hail, sleet, snow, and electricity so start early on a reasonable weather day. This is a time-consuming hike. Snow lingers deep and late in the upper basin. There is typically a two month window for climbing Vermilion and Fuller--from early August until the snow flies. It took five attempts for me to reach Vermilion the first time. I was thwarted by the saddle cornice and wild storms. Even then, the southwest traverse was covered in September snow.