Friday, August 30, 2013

Sierra Nevada: Lamarck Col to Bishop Pass

The High Sierra trip this year included my hiking companion as well as my son, 23, a seasoned climber and backpacker. We began at the Piute Pass trailhead but veered off immediately towards Lamarck Col. From the Col, we dropped into Darwin Canyon and eventually met up with the John Muir Trail. On this highly engineered, manicured marvel, we passed through Evolution Basin, went up and over Muir Pass, down into Le Conte Canyon, and finally out Bishop Pass by way of Dusy Basin. We began our trip on August 18, walking into the face of a multi-day storm.

California's Sierra Nevada is a young, edgy and restless range with three commanding components: rock, sky, and water.

Darwin Canyon and a portion of the "Range of Scientists" from Lamarck Col. (THW, photo)

We scrambled easily enough up to the Col beside one of many dwindling glaciers on dependable, blocky talus.

Swimming into blue blue reflection at the highest lake in Darwin Canyon, its water sweet and pure. (THW, photo)

I favor rock. Having been raised literally on Sierra granite, it is home. At every point on the north/south running craggy dragon's spine, covering an enormous portion of California, senses are overwhelmed by the presence and power of rock that dominates this land: smooth sheets and domes, palisades and pinnacles, thick exfoliated slabs, glacial erratics, quartz edged chunks, crushed granitic granules, and America's tallest mountain. Granite is so obdurate, so enduring, it emerged victorious, gleaming prettily, from the punishment of the glacier's grinding force. Ice scoured and polished, with a certain slant of the sun, whole mountainsides shine so brightly it makes my eyes hurt.

Glacial polish glistens in light rain at Sapphire Lake in Evolution Basin while Sun finds an opening to light Mt. Huxley, evening.

Granite, so dependable, is the climber's delight. Standing on a lofty slab of trustworthy stone, framed by Mt. Huxley, morning. (THW, photo)

It rained 38.5 hours over our first four days. We were awash in downpours, cramming three people into a two person tent for extended hours of stories and mind games. On our much anticipated climbing day, it rained all night and we woke to splatters on tent walls.

We capitalized on ten minute rain-free segments to prepare meals before dashing back into tents at Sapphire Lake.

Abandoning our climbing agenda, we raced rain over Muir Pass and dropped into Le Conte Canyon in a ridiculous bone chilling, finger numbing deluge. The Muir Hut resides on the shallow saddle. Black Giant 13,330', surrenders to the storm.

Descending into Le Conte Canyon, even in the rain, granite gleams.

The Sierra is most often kind to its pilgrims and our fifth day was drenched, this time in sun, born on a cold, gusty wind. We friction climbed up a sheet of stone beside Dusy Creek. This outrageous fun is only possible on dry rock.

The sky up there is very pure and fine, bracing and delicious. And why shouldn't it be? It is the same the angels breathe.  Mark Twain

The Citadel, a razor edged fortress, is delineated by a sharpness of light, the air so clean it draws with a needle made of quartz.

We adjusted plans, this time to accommodate sun, and enjoyed the highlight of our trip. We climbed angular slabs and terraces to Knapsack Pass above Dusy Basin.

Columbine Peak, North Palisade, and Polemonium Peak from Knapsack Pass.

Mt. Agassiz amongst the Palisades, boasting in alpenglow above camp in Dusy Basin.

We'll return to climb in the Range of Scientists, the Palisades, explore Goddard canyon and mountain, and climb the Black Giant off Muir Pass. And that is a tiny cranny. After six decades, I'm only beginning to know my home mountains which inspire a mystical devotion, so vast, raw, and indomitable are they. Appropriately, an ancient name for the Sierra range is Inyo, Dwelling Place of a Great Spirit.

These days must enrich all my life. They do not exist as mere pictures, but they saturate themselves into every part of the body and live always.  John Muir

Friday, August 2, 2013

Golden Horn, 13,780', Via Ice Lake Basin

Essence: Ascend a deservedly popular trail through flowery splendor to Ice Lake, an imponderable blue jewel. Balance atop the improbable spire of Golden Horn, a peak as alluring as its name. A long approach with substantial vertical.
Travel: From Durango, drive north on US 550 about 47 miles to Silverton. Continue north toward Ouray for two miles. At the sign for South Mineral Campground, bear left onto a good dirt road. In 4.2 miles, park on the right at the trailhead. Allow 1:15 from Durango.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 12 miles, 3,800 feet of climbing  
Time: 6:30 to 8:00
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation moderate; some Class 3 scrambling and exposure on the summit block.
Map: Ophir, Colorado 7.5 Quad
Latest Date Hiked: August 2, 2013
Quote: The unexpected and the incredible belong in this world. Only then is life whole. C. G. Jung

From Golden Horn, Ice Lake is 1,523 feet below. Two friends adorn its twin-like subsidiary peak. (EJB, photo)

Route: From Ice Lake TH 9,840', take the standard trail to Ice Lake, bypassing the turnoff to Island Lake, shown below. Continue on the trail toward Fuller Lake. Ascend onto the bench north of the lake and utilize it to gain the Fuller/Vermilion/Golden Horn basin. Climb northwest to the saddle and then northeast to the peak.

Note for Hikers: From the trailhead at 9,840 feet, it is 3.6 miles and 2,417 feet of gain to Ice Lake Basin. While many people do an out-and-back, for a premier venture, try the stem and loop that takes in Island Lake, shown in September. The Island Lake, Ice Lake Basin loop is 7.8 miles, with 2,800 feet of climbing.

Route for Climbers: The trek to Golden Horn makes pleasant use of the Ice Lake trail, switchbacking lazily up through a subalpine forest of conifer and aspen.

Flowers are abundant and occasionally unusual: Star Gentian and Fringed Grass of Parnassus. (THW, photo)

After 2.2 miles, at 11,460 feet, break out of the trees at the unsigned turnoff for Island Lake. While climbers will continue straight, the junction does afford the first view of the unmistakable Golden Horn, shown below. Indomitable Vermilion Peak, 13,894', image center, is the highest peak framing the basin. While Vermilion is a challenging Class 3 climb, Fuller Peak, 13,761', the perfect pyramid at left, is the easiest to achieve of the three.

Don't be snared by Lower Ice Lake Basin, one of the most luscious and moist environments in Southern Colorado. Rather, kick up the pace on flat terrain. In peak season flowers are chest high, their colors and texture contrasting with the stone-black headwall soon to be pierced. (THW, photo)

There is typically a two month window for climbing Golden Horn, from early August until the snow flies. Snow lingers deep and late in the upper basin, confined beneath the highest mountains. In the lower basin the outlet streams for Island Lake, and then, Ice Lake must be forded. The latter can be a boot soaker. If there is time and energy on the return, the Ice Lake cascade provides an astonishing exploration option. (THW, photo)

Exit the lower basin on a thin, rocky trail, climbing 737 feet in the final mile to Ice Lake, 12,257 feet. Reach it at 3.6 miles. Profound color saturates your experience of this place.

Colors are the deeds and suffering of light. Goethe

From the shore, the bulky stanchion of Golden Horn's northeast ridge, Pt 13,230', obscures its delicate spire. Climbers must skirt this ridge on the left. The easiest way is by use of a bench located between the ridge and Fuller Lake. Directions follow.

Keeping Ice Lake on your right, follow the Fuller Lake trail southwest. Pass a shallow lake whose reflective mirror is pleasingly broken by boulders at 3.8 miles.

Continue up the trail and Golden Horn comes into view.

Cross Fuller Lake's outlet at 4.1 miles, and then look for any plausible route onto the bench, about 200 feet up on the right, shown.  A social trail and cairns assist the trek across the bench moving southwest.

Visually locate the saddle between Vermilion and Golden Horn, shown. Follow cairns off the bench at 4.7 miles to the right/west. Cross the high basin on broken rock void of plant life.

The scrabbly 200 foot climb to the saddle is riddled with short cliffs but you can wiggle your way up through the rock. In fact, there are fragments of social trail that zigzag on an ever-rising traverse to Saddle 13,360'. The best track is within the rock trending near the left side. The peak is 420 feet above and 0.3 mile away. The route is obvious. (THW, photo)

The climb begins on loose, gravely soil but quickly becomes a four-point scramble with some exposure on debris-compromised rock. Stay on the craggy ridge as long as possible. Eventually, you will be forced off to the right/east side. Finally, move left/west into the pronounced gap between the two summit spires. (THW, photo)

It is an unexpected delight to discover Golden Horn has two summit pinnacles, double the pleasure. Once I was forced by atrocious weather to neglect the slightly lower apex. Start with the highpoint which is on climber's left, facing the mountain. The stair-step scramble up the east side to the top is easier than the approach. In this image, the author stands on the zenith. Vermilion Peak is image-left. (THW, photo)

The tiny tipped, 4 X 4 foot horn has room for a small cluster of people. Be steady; it is exposed and airy up there. (THW, photo)

From the summit spire, study the subsidiary block and plot your route. As can be seen in this image the first few steps are up a suck-in-your-breath slit. There is one breezy, exposed move at the crest.

For the return, I retrace my steps. However, once I saw a man clamber off Golden Horn and do a pure ridge traverse to Pt. 13,230'. He dropped into the basin between Golden Horn and Pilot Knob and re-emerged at Ice Lake.

It is possible to do a gnarly ridge climb from Golden Horn to Vermilion. Or, traverse below the ridge on a bench and arrive not far below the Vermilion-Fuller saddle. I have not done either of these nonconventional routes.

Vermilion and Fuller are typically climbed handily as a pair from their shared saddle on another day. Once, while standing on the apex of Golden Horn, I waved to some friends on Vermilion. They later referred to Golden Horn as the "Headline-Grabbing Peak."

Ice Lake Basin is a gathering place for drenching rain, hail, sleet, snow, and electricity so start early on a reasonable weather day.