Monday, July 17, 2017

Molas Pass to Coal Bank Pass Via Jura Knob, 12,614’

Essence: From the first to the last footfall this thru-hike is an immersive wildflower extravaganza in mid-summer. Walk off some fast miles on the Colorado Trail. Woods open to delicate streams and conglomerate boulders embedded in tundra. Climb solitary Jura Knob to be surrounded by big mountains and a bigger sky before scrambling down to the Engineer Mountain Trail. Celebrate on the Engineer Plateau, famous for its floral expanse before finishing in deep woods on the Pass Creek Trail. Expect to share this trek with mountain bikers.
Travel: The thru-hike requires a shuttle. From Durango, drive north on US 550 for 35 miles to Coal Bank Pass. Turn west 0.1 mile north of the pass onto a dirt road that leads shortly to parking for the Pass Creek Trail. Drop a vehicle here and continue north on US 550. Crest Molas Pass, mile marker 64. Take the first signed left toward Little Molas Lake, 0.4 mile north of the pass. Drive 1.1 miles on a good dirt road passing an established campground and park at the Colorado Trail Trailhead. Pit toilet, no water.
Distance and Elevation Gain: If you climb Jura Knob: 15.6 miles with 2,600 feet of climbing. If you forego Jura and stay on the Engineer Mountain Trail: 16.2 miles with 2,700 feet of vertical.
Total Time: 6:00 to 8:00
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail (Jura Knob); navigation moderate; One Class 3 move with mild exposure descending Jura
Map: Map of the Mountains Between Silverton and Durango, 2010
Latest Date Hiked: July 17, 2017
Quote: Returning to daily life after a trip to the mountains, I have often felt as though I were a stranger re-entering my country after years abroad, not yet adjusted to my return, and bearing experiences beyond speech. Robert Macfarlane, Mountains of the Mind

The Colorado Trail contours for five miles above the Lime Creek drainage at treeline. The hike is a complimentary interplay of forest, tundra, boulders, and wildflowers. (THW, photo)

Route: The trek begins on the Colorado Trail near Molas Pass, elevation 10,900 feet, and makes an arc westward and then south to the Pass Creek Trail, concluding at Coal Bank Pass. On the Colorado Trail, track above the Lime Creek drainage to the Engineer Mountain Trail. Off-trail, climb Jura Knob before rejoining the Engineer Mountain Trail. (Trail hikers may take the blue-line option.) Click on this link for standard routes up Jura Knob.

The hike begins on a popular segment of the Colorado Trail. The trailhead is a re-supply zone for thru-hikers and Little Molas Lake is its own popular destination. Hit the trail on the west side of the over-sized parking lot and be immediately enveloped by a shaded big-tree wood. Myrtle blueberry, heart leaf arnica, and Jacob's ladder lavishly decorate the forest floor.

Climbing gently, step up limestone bands and cross a stream at 0.7 mile. Break out into the high open and gain the ridge at 1.3 miles, 11,300 feet. In 1879, the Lime Creek Fire burned 26,000 acres of forest with such intensity it has not yet recovered. A stalwart scorched tree has stood over 140 years. Here, the cross-state trail hooks north. Linger for a captivating view of Engineer Mountain and the La Plata Mountains.

Continue on the trail as it heads northeast up the broad ridge. Buttercups pump out wattage highlighting ever beckoning Snowdon Peak.

The trail maxes out on the ridge at 11,620 feet, 2.0 miles, and veers to the west flank of West Turkshead Peak (Point 12,849'). For the next five miles the Colorado Trail cruises along on the 11,600 contour, give or take 200 feet.
(THW, photo)

Back in the timber, Whipple's penstemon, western valerian, and variegated paintbrush thrive in sunny patches. The track turns west at 3.1 miles and crosses a divide. The North Fork of Lime Creek surrenders to the south and Bear Creek rolls north to its confluence with the South Fork of Mineral Creek.

Below, hikers are tracking under Peak 12,764'. (THW, photo)

Pass by impressive Telluride Conglomerate boulders that peeled off the cliffs above. The "pebbles" are an ageless mix of very hard sedimentary rocks, schists, granites, and quartzites. (THW, photo)

Hikers move along a linear path hovering at treelimit. (THW, photo)

At 5.1 miles, elevation 11,500 feet, an old trail no longer obvious takes off to the north. It takes advantage of a fault in the Cutler Formation and Telluride Conglomerate to pierce the break at the apex of the Lime Creek drainage, shown. This is one of the best routes up the Twin Sisters. Twice in this location I have encountered a substantial herd of sheep and barking white guard dogs.

After crossing the headwaters of Lime Creek the trail curves around to the southwest. I have been along this section of the Colorado Trail many times and here the flowers dwarf humans. Hillsides are enveloped in osha, delphinium, and corn husk lily.

A small basin filled with jumbo boulders marks another fault in the Cutler Formation at 7.3 miles. This is an exit route from Twin Sisters. Now the trail climbs gently and consistently through the krummholz and into the luculent high alpine. Multiple lakelets reside on a perched water table and streams glide lazily through tundra sparkling with marsh marigolds. Just off the bench the sizable local elk herd grazes unaware of hikers above.

Arrive at the junction of the Colorado Trail and Engineer Mountain Trail (EMT) at 9.4 miles. The Colorado Trail goes west, north of Point 12,766’. Leave the Colorado Trail here and turn south on the EMT.

Engineer Mountain Trail
Trail hikers should take the blue-line EMT alternative. Descend 700 feet into the headwaters of Engine Creek flanking Jura Knob on the west before climbing back up to meet the Deer Creek Trail in three miles where the routes rejoin. If the up-climb seems arduous, perhaps the fields of blue bells, rosy paintbrush and king’s crown will distract.

Jura Knob, 12,614'
Walk south for just 0.2 mile on the EMT. At 12,200 feet leave the trail to climb the north ridge of Jura. The pitch is gentle to start and somewhat steeper near the top. Locate a good social trail though broken limestone and summit on the flat broad crest at 10.2 miles.

Jura Knob isn't the tallest mountain around but its singular location affords a sweeping vista of loftier peaks. Looking north from the left is Rolling Mountain, the Ice Lake series, and Twin Sisters. (THW, photo)

Eastward, the enchanting Grenadier Range and Needle Mountains are protected within the Weminuche Wilderness.

From Jura Knob the trek heads toward the eastern slopes of crenelated Engineer Mountain. (THW, photo)

Descend on Jura's south ridge. A delightful block scramble terminates at Corner Wall, a seven-foot downclimb located on the east side of the prominence. This is the easiest attack point. Scramble down Corner Wall facing the rock. Shorter people may need a spot because, while handholds are good, footholds are stingy. The pitch is too radical for dogs. The image below shoots up at Corner Wall.

Stay on the soft ridgecrest to a knoll at 12,000 feet. Then drop south 200 feet to intersect the Deer Creek Trail. The image below depicts the south ridge of Jura with hikers going uphill. (THW, photo)

Intersect the Deer Creek Trail and go right/west. At 12.1 miles, 11,680 feet, come to a signed junction with the EMT. The blue-line and back-line routes rejoin here. Turn left/south. Cross yet another expansive flower-infused meadow and enter a rich stand of conifers. 

The trail climbs lazily until it meets the Pass Creek Trail at a four-way junction at 13.1 miles, 11,720 feet. Leave the EMT and go left on the Pass Creek Trail. The flower show on the Engineer Plateau is superlative. (Chris Blackshear, photo)

From here, the trailhead is 2.4 miles down a well-engineered ultra popular trail for hikers and mountain bikers. The pleasant grade proceeds by sinuous switchbacks. The dirt path is guarded by old and stately fir and spruce trees; limestone boulders are studded with fossils. One mile from the trailhead pass a perfectly round disk of water.

As you take your final steps toward the conclusion of this trek at Coal Bank Pass, in mid-summer you will be engulfed by some of the brightest and tallest wildflowers in Colorado.

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