New Mexico Arches: Anasazi, Octopus, and Cedar Hills

Essence: Two separate hikes feature three of the several hundred natural arches located near Aztec, New Mexico. Anasazi Arch is a free-standing, thin ribbon of stone often likened to Utah's Delicate Arch. Octopus and Cedar Hills Arches are steps away from each other but are categorically different. All three are very near the Colorado-New Mexico border. You will see and hear oil and gas installations on land managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Hikes to the arches are short and can easily be done in a day; further exploration is suggested.
Travel to Anasazi Arch: From Durango, drive south on US 550 over Farmington Hill to the New Mexico stateline. Just south of mile marker 171 (170.9) turn west on San Juan County Road 2300. Start measuring from here. Bear right on CR 2310 in 1.2 miles. Stay on the main road at spurs. Just past a large oil and gas facility turn right at 3.8 miles. Take the left fork at 4.0 miles and park. Roads can be very slippery and even impassible when wet but 2WD suitable when dry.
Travel to Octopus Arch: The access road to Octopus is about two miles south of the turnoff for Anasazi. Right after US 550 crosses the Animas River take the first left on San Juan CR 2390. There is a sign for the Cedar Hill Cemetery. In 2.2 miles park in a two-car pullout on the left side of the road.
Distance and Elevation Gain, Anasazi Arch: 0.5 mile roundtrip with 160 feet of gain; out-and-back to the La Plata Mountains Lookout adds 1.5 miles and 400 feet of vertical.
Total Time for Anasazi Arch Hikes: 1:00 to 3:00
Distance and Elevation Gain, Octopus and Cedar Hills Arches: 1.5 miles with 400 feet of climbing.
Total Time for Octopus Arch Area: 1:00 to 2:00
Difficulty: Off-trail; navigation moderate; Class 2+ with mild exposure on the pitches near Anasazi; long pants recommended for those doing further exploring.
Arch Geology and Information: There were three sea-came-in and sea-went-out episodes in the eastern San Juan Basin of New Mexico during the Cretaceous period. The arches are located in the San Jose Formation of the Eocene age. The San Jose thickens to 2,300 feet toward the east-central part of the basin. Over 400 arches have been cataloged in Northern New Mexico by Larry Beck, president of the Natural Arch and Bridge Society. Arch statistics and coordinates sited below were found in a National Geographic publication featuring sandstone arches near Aztec, New Mexico.
Maps: Cedar Hill, New Mexico; Mount Nebo, New Mexico-Colorado 7.5' USGS Quads
Latest Date Hiked: June 11, 2019
Quote: All experience is an arch wherethrough gleams that untraveled world whose margin fades forever and forever when I move. Alfred Lord Tennyson

Elegant and exquisite, isolated Anasazi Arch rises from its mother stone in a perfect catenary curve.
(Thomas Holt Ward, photo) 

Route to Anasazi Arch: From the parking area hike north to the arch. Three optional additions are offered: exploring the sandstone rim at arch level, a short loop to the Arch Overlook, and a longer hike to the La Plata Mountains Lookout, indicated below with a blue line. Note: this topographic map uses 20 foot intervals.

Anasazi Arch
On some maps Anasazi is named Cox Canyon Arch. Cox Canyon drains Black Canyon in La Plata County, Colorado, running south and parallel to the Animas River. The Cox Canyon tributary joins the Animas at Cedar Hill, a hamlet north of Aztec. The arch is located on one of the lower benches of a mesa that spans the two drainages.

From the trailhead, elevation 6,200 feet, Anasazi Arch is less than a quarter of a mile away but navigation is not obvious. Walk north aiming initially for the pouroff at the apex of a natural amphitheater. The south wall terminates at an 80-foot, straight-standing column, off-image on the right.

There is a pretty good social trail that penetrates the initial cliff band on the north side of the dry fall. This is the only user-friendly approach to the arch. (THW, photo)

While weaving through fallen boulders look up to see the approaching span. (THW, photo)

Shallow hand and toe holds are carved into the stone as you top out on the first terrace. The San Jose Formation is a highly textured, granular sandstone which makes for delightfully sticky climbing. However, the raspy rock will wear away at your fingerprints after a few hours of arch hunting. (THW, photo)

You need to hit this break in the cliffs both going and coming from the arch. Over the years cairns have been transient so make a note of your location. It is off-trail from here but the arch remains visible to the northeast residing on the next bench. (THW, photo)

Walking through Anasazi's ring of stone is both wondrous and startling. It is a perfect arc of sky upheld by a stream of rock that tenuously rests on a broad platform, beautiful in form, perfect in function. It is classified as "isolated," because it is not attached to any rock other than its base. Most likely eroded from a fin, its span is 42 feet and its height is 35 feet. Coordinates are: Latitude: 36° 59' 52.431" N, Longitude: 107° 54' 33.138" W. Living in companionship with the sky hole are old twisted junipers, yucca spears, aromatic sage, and stimulating ephedra. (THW, photo)

Please resist the strong temptation to climb the arch. It is dangerous for humans and potentially catastrophic for the vulnerable arch. What follows are suggestions for further exploration in the area. All three options can be completed in a couple of hours. (THW, photo)

Sandstone Rim at Arch Level
From the arch walk east dropping slightly onto a sandstone rim. Walk as far as you like and then double back to the arch.

Scramble to Arch Overview
North of the arch is another sandstone barrier. Getting up to the next level is great fun. This loop hike goes up through the Rabbit Hole and down the Dog Route. If you are with a dog, you will need to take the Dog Route up and back.

Rabbit Hole: From the east side of the arch head a short distance northeast until you spot a cave and skylight. It is a low Class 3 move to get into the squeeze. The passage through the hole elevates you onto a sandstone sheet with petrified globular billows.

You will naturally want to scamper all over up there. Walk west to the Arch Overview. (THW, photo)

Dog Route: To return to the arch walk northwest. You will encounter a shattered terrace floor--large, thick stone plates that you can leap around on.

Head over to the rim to locate the Dog Route. It is a stone funnel with carved hand and foot depressions. An ultra playful set of moves will get you back to arch level. For those going both directions on the Dog Route, from the arch follow along the base of the wall to the west. It is the first scaling opportunity. (THW, photo)

La Plata Mountains Lookout
If you'd like even more exploring, I recommend climbing 400 feet off-trail to the mesa top for a staggering view of the La Plata and San Juan Mountains.

The mesa is well armored with not a lot of breaks in the escarpment. Analyze your options before leaving the Arch Overview. It is hiker's choice but I find it helpful to hold a northeast bearing to the base of the wall, reaching it at the break shown right of image-center. You will be plowing through brush and a piñon-juniper forest so long pants are helpful.

Your route may be unremarkable or you might get lucky and encounter these boulders. (THW, photo)

Our penetration point is shown on the map above in a recess. There are other good places to scale further east. Ours was an enjoyable scramble. If you like your ascent route, make a mental note because it won't be obvious on the return.

Once above the wall climb another 80 feet while bearing east and then south. This will put you on a vast sandstone sheet. Roam around to get a good angle on the La Plata and San Juan Mountains, including Mountain View Crest. Concentrate until you are able to pick out the arch from the mesa top. Retrace your steps to the the trailhead.

Route to Octopus and Cedar Hills Arches: There are several approaches to these arches, all of them off-trail. Some routes are shorter but none as elegant. From the parking pullout, walk east and gain a bluff protruding from a small mesa. Ascend northeast into the San Jose Formation. Hike a short loop that serves both arches. Note: this topographic map uses 20 foot intervals.

The arches are located on the east side of Ditch Canyon which drains the Mesa Mountains and joins the Animas River at Cedar Hill. It is a good idea to drive 0.1 mile beyond the pullout and locate Cedar Hills Arch at skyline. I once referred to it as "Marker Arch" because it points to Octopus Arch which is nearby but out of sight on its left. (THW, photo)

From the parking pullout, elevation 5,950 feet, the arches are just over half a mile distant. Cross San Juan CR 2390 and walk northeast through a sage flat while aiming for the left-hand base of the bluff topped with big blocks. Cross a wide and dry sandy wash. Pick any place that looks appealing and climb the first pitch.

Head north on the terrace. It is narrow enough to feel like a ridge with oil and gas 4WD tracks below on both sides. The arches are located on the next level. Scale the soft, purple shale of the Nacimiento Formation which underlies the San Jose.

Continue traveling north to a large outcrop, shown. It signifies the beginning of the loop. For the most direct route to the arches turn left. I favor the counterclockwise loop starting to the right. Thread through large boulders and do a Class 2+ climb onto a sandstone expanse with small weathered domes and whorling petrified biscuits.

Walk west and then back south on top of the stone ridge following a trail of broken beer bottles to Octopus Arch. Its most distinguishing characteristic is the top of the span which looks very much like the head of an octopus. The span is 29 feet and the height is 12 feet. Coordinates are: Latitude: 36° 56' 13.694" N, Longitude: 107° 51' 37.373" W. Octopus was formed by a pothole near a cliff edge that grew deeper and deeper until it wore through the cliff wall. Please do not climb on this fragile arch.  

When I first visited in 2008, Octopus had a beautiful extended arm, now sadly truncated. (THW, photo)

Continue south on the upper level for 0.1 mile to Cedar Hills Arch. This is a cliff wall arch, or an alcove arch, whose roof was eroded away. This powerful and substantial aperture will ably support the weight of people who are not afraid of exposure. The span is 30 feet and the height is 20 feet. Coordinates are: Latitude: 36° 56' 12.649" N, Longitude: 107° 51' 38.539" W. (THW, photo)

To reach the base of the arches walk back north. If you have the time, you can wander a fair distance on softly rippling sandstone.

Drop west and then walk south to the underside of Octopus. This ancient arch is growing ever more delicate. Hikers naturally pause to take in the essence of a structure that is defined more by emptiness than by stone. (THW, photo)

Anasazi and Octopus are well known and loved while Cedar Hills is considered a bonus arch. But it is my favorite because it answers the inexplicable need some of us possess to both stand on, and stand below, an arc of stone. The rock highlights the sky so blue, our faraway sun casts animated shadows, and each grain of sandstone is in a state of unique perfection. (THW, photo)

Man is a dream, thought an illusion, and only rock is real. Rock and sun. Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire

Prior to this hike I've always been arch hunting in New Mexico during winter months when elk and cougars roam the domain and golden eagles glide overhead. In June, claret-cup cactus were blooming scarlet and prickly pear were peach, apricot, and yellow. (THW, photo)

Double bladderpod had already gone to seed. (THW, photo)

Some patches of cushion buckwheat were red, others cream. (THW, photo)

Also blooming were Utah serviceberry, townsendia, scarlet gilia, white mariposa lily, Eaton's penstemon, desert four o'clock, desert prince's plume, yucca, and lupine.