McMillan Peak, 12,804'; Ohio Peak, 12,673', Red Mountain Pass

Essence: The half day ramble up McMillan Peak is suitable for families with older children who like to hike. Walk free-range across immense spans of unfettered tundra. While the effort to summit is moderate, the point of vantage is commanding. Most enthralling is the lineup of peaks west of US 550. Alpine flowers are profuse mid-summer. A longer loop incorporates Ohio Peak. Both summits are located on the divide between the Mineral Creek and Cement Creek watersheds. A string of twelvers begins in the south with Anvil Mountain rising up out of Silverton. The ridge grows in stature and culminates in the north at Red Mountain No. 3 (12,890'). The welcoming western slopes of McMillan are exceptional; the other peaks on the divide are hardscrabble. The hike is contained within the San Juan National Forest.
Travel: The turnoff from US 550 is just south of mile marker 80, less than a quarter mile south of Red Mountain Pass. Turn east on unsigned FSR 825 and start measuring from here. You will need 4WD and decent clearance on this steep but good dirt road. The track heads generally southeast. At 0.7 mile, turn right on San Juan CR 14. There is a sign here for St. Paul Lodge & Hut. The road splits at 1.0 mile, go right. Cross Big Horn Gulch at 1.3 miles. Park in the pullout on the left at 1.7 miles. The road continues and reaches its high point at 12,120 feet. Then it descends through Browns Gulch back to US 550 at 5.8 miles. The road is graded dirt (avoid when wet), steep, narrow, with short shelf sections. There is a large pullout at the south end of CR 14 and US 550 at mile marker 75.9.
Distance and Elevation Gain: McMillan Peak loop is 4.2 miles with 1,500 feet of climbing. The out-and-back to the peak is 3.4 miles with 1,200 feet of vertical. The McMillan-Ohio loop is 5.4 miles with 1,750 feet of gain.
Total Time: 3:00 to 4:30 depending on route
Difficulty: Off-trail; navigation moderate; no exposure
Maps: Ironton; Silverton, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quads
Latest Date Hiked: August 6, 2020 
Quote: Just living is not enough…one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower. Hans Christian Andersen

This image was shot from the broad, south rim of U S Basin. McMillan Peak is easily identified from all over the region by the microwave reflector standing on the summit.

Route: FSR 825/CR 14 is indicated with a red line. There are multiple ways to climb McMillan and Ohio--build your own hike. This description begins from CR 14 in U S Basin. For the blue-line stem and loop, ascend southeast in U S Basin to the ridge and then northeast to the summit of McMillan. Return as you came or extend your exploration by descending along the south rim of the basin over Point 12,596'. For the longer black-line loop, park at the same location and walk south up CR 14 to its highest point. Hike east to the north ridge of Ohio. Climb the peak on a spur and then hike north to McMillan. Descend on open tundra northwest and then west into U S Basin and back to the start.

Blue-Line Stem and Loop to McMillan Peak
From the parking pullout, elevation 11,760 feet, head up into U S Basin. The hike begins at tree limit where healthy spruce stands concede to the alpine. The topo indicates an old trail running up to a mine site at 12,200 feet. Walk up the road a few paces to intersect it. It presents as a stream channel. We just launched from the pullout and intuitively found ourselves on the trail remnant but there is plenty of freedom of movement on the gentle slopes. Favor the south side of the basin to stay clear of willow patches. Cross the stream feeding Big Horn Gulch at half a mile, 11,880 feet.

We gained the ridge in one mile at 12,400 feet, the lowest point in the image below. The photos in this post are taken from different hikes and seasons. In August, 2020, U S Basin was filled with a large herd of domestic sheep.
(Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

Fortunately, sheep do not favor eating queen's crown... (THW, photo)

 

Or cottongrass. (THW, photo)

 

A well-trodden social trail flanks Point 12,652' on the west but you may stay right on the ridgeline if you prefer.

McMillan Peak has two rounded prominences on its crest. The climbing is a little steep for the last 200 feet to the secondary summit. Pause here to process the astounding array of thirteeners to the west. In this image alone the span begins with Rolling Mountain on the left, Grizzly Peak, then the peaks ringing the Ice Lake Basin: Fuller Peak, Vermilion Peak, Golden Horn, Pilot Knob, and US Grant; South Lookout Peak, and the peaks surrounding Mill Creek Basin (Columbine Lake): Peak 13,300', and Lookout Peak. Finally, Peak 13,434' is hiding Bridal Peak (formerly T11). Off image to the right are the roads winding up to Porphyry Basin and Black Bear Pass.

The slightly higher summit is a few more paces east. Reach the crest at 1.7 miles after just 1,140 feet of elevation gain. A friend in telecommunications said the passive microwave repeater was necessary for reflecting signals for long distance phone calls back in the land line days. He speculated that the screen remains in place as a backup system.
(THW, photo)

To the north, the Reds put on their brilliant display.

The eastward drop to Cement Creek is abrupt. This image includes Gladstone and the Gold King Mine (site of the calamitous waste water spill in 2015), the Silverton Mountain Ski Area, and the 4WD track going up to Hurricane Pass. On the horizon at image-center is Handies Peak.

Returning from the peak, a social trail climbs over Point 12,652'. (Need to get low in a hurry? See the end of this post for the northwest ridge descent.)

The view from Point 12,652' is spectacular so go over it coming or going. (THW, photo)

 

From the saddle at 2.5 miles the fastest way back to the start is to return through U S Basin. Extend your excursion by heading west on the ridge rimming the basin on the south, image-right. (The saddle is another good launch point for climbing Ohio Peak.)

Go right up the face of Point 12,596', a short, moderately steep climb. There's a little slot in the rock band you can squeeze through.

From this highpoint you will see CR 14 topping out before plunging through Browns Gulch back to the highway. The beautifully symmetrical mountain in the mid-ground below is V6 (Peak 12,442').

Scramble down the little rocky spine (or go around) and run out the ridge to CR 14. The track across the valley is the notorious Black Bear Pass Road. Trico Peak is image-left. The three counties intersecting on its apex are San Juan, Ouray, and San Miguel.

Hit the road and turn right. The road to Porphyry Basin is across the highway. Image-center is Three Needles and on the right is T10, Peak 13,477'.

Black-Line Loop to Ohio Peak and Then McMillan Peak
From the parking pullout in U S Basin walk south on CR 14. It dips at first and then climbs to 12,120 feet. You will be glad at the end of your hike that you got this ascent out of the way on the front end. The scenery is absolutely stunning. This image looks down on Chattanooga Curve and the Mill Creek trench. This is the location of the most difficult and unconventional Slidepath Route to Columbine Lake.

At 1.2 miles, leave the road just as it begins to roll downhill. Head east and climb the little knoll at 12,180 feet to get your bearings and check out your options. Ohio Peak rises forcefully to the east on the other side of Browns Gulch. This route hits the north ridge at the miner's shack, shown.

We considered climbing the south ridge of Point 12,596' and heading to the Ohio saddle from there. But then we noticed a social trail sweeping through the basin just below the 12,200 foot contour. Turns out, this trail was boot packed and marked with very occasional cairns. Cross the Browns Gulch defile at 1.6 miles.

Hold your trajectory and soon the faded trail will reappear as it climbs softly to the ridge right at the cabin and quite near the saddle at 1.9 miles, 12,300 feet. Someone was living here; there is a stove pipe lying on the ground.
(Jana Goldstein, photo)

Ohio peak is a 0.8 mile roundtrip spur with less than 400 feet of vertical. The short wall on the north ridge presents the toughest segment of the loop. There are several braided trails with resistant soil west of the cliff that pitch steeply. Return to the ridge at first opportunity. This image was shot looking back from a ways north of the saddle.

Once back on the ridgeline it is a mellow rocky ascent up and over a false summit to the real thing. Crest Ohio Peak at 2.3 miles after just 980 feet of vertical.

Looking down the divide, Anvil Mountain is the soft red dome. In front of it and hidden from view is Peak 12,296'. Sultan Mountain and Grand Turk preside over Silverton west of town (left of Anvil in this image). To the right of Anvil is Bear Mountain.

McMillan Peak
From Ohio, McMillan is the next and higher prominence 1.7 miles north. Retrace your steps to the saddle.

As you approach the miner's shack examine your route. We found a couple of cairns guiding onto the highest of the sheep trails mounting the hill north of the saddle. Head the defile at the top of Minnesota Gulch. The social trail passes west of two small knolls and then intersects the ridge at the top of U S Basin. Climb McMillan on the blue-line route, cresting the peak at 4.0 miles.

You could certainly return through the basin or on the south rim route described earlier. We were enticed by the rolling tundra country north and west of the peak. From the secondary summit a trail wanders off toward Red Mountain No. 3. It was helpful for a ways but at 12,600 feet we cut away from it and the ridge.

We curved west and then southwest back into the basin, keeping our eye on our vehicle. The only obstacles on the relaxing descent were willow patches. We weaved around and then plowed through them just before crossing Big Horn Gulch creek. (THW, photo)

This image looks back our sublime descent route.

Dry Gulch Trail, Durango

Essence: The Dry Gulch Trail utilizes an old wagon supply road that once connected Durango with ranches in the greater Lightner Creek watershed. This is a family-friendly, half-day hike. Begin at the Rockridge Trailhead and turn around as you please or upon reaching Dry Fork Road. The tranquil hike through foothills grassland is prized for its supreme view of North Perins Peak and pristine nature adjacent to town. The entire trek is within the Perins Peak State Wildlife Area, managed by Colorado Parks and Wildlife, and is open to the public four months annually: August through November. 
Travel to Rockridge Trailhead: From Main Avenue and 25th Street, go west. Pass Miller Middle School and in two blocks, turn left on Clovis Drive. Go up the hill and enter Rockridge. Drive just under a mile and turn right on Tanglewood Drive. Cross a small bridge and take an immediate left. The parking area is on the right.
Travel to the Dry Fork Road Trailhead: Start measuring from the US 550/160 intersection in Durango. Travel 3.3 miles on US 160 West and turn right on Lightner Creek Road, La Plata County Road 207. At 4.3 miles, turn right onto Dry Fork Road, CR 208, a graded dirt road suitable for all vehicles. Take the right fork at 6.3 miles. The west end of the Dry Gulch Trail is at 6.5 miles with a pull-off on the right.
Distance and Elevation Gain Roundtrip: 8.0 miles; 1,250 feet of climbing
Total Time: 3:00 to 4:30
Difficulty: Trail; navigation easy; no exposure
Map: Durango West, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quad, or Apogee Mapping
Winter Closure and Year-Round Restrictions: The Dry Gulch Trail is open for only four months of the year, August 1 through November 30. In the Perins Peak State Wildlife Area public access is prohibited during the closure period to protect wintering big-game and spring-nesting peregrine falcons. No motorized vehicles or mountain bikes. Dogs must be on leash.
Quote: Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed. We need wilderness preserved--as much of it as is still left, and as may kinds--because it was the challenge against which our character as a people was formed. Wallace Stegner

Hikers glance at North Perins Peak while walking through autumn's splendor.

Route: The Dry Gulch Trail is an out-and-back. This description begins at the Rockridge Trailhead and bears northwest but you may begin from the Dry Fork Road. 

Two trails emanate from the Rockridge Trailhead, elevation 6,880 feet. The trail to Perins Peak and North Perins Peak heads west and immediately crosses Dry Gulch. The Dry Gulch Trail bears north and stays on the east side of the drainage. As indicated on the posted sign, mountain bikes and motorized vehicles are prohibited and dogs must remain on leash.

Chet and Eva Thompson settled in Thompson Park in 1870 with 20,000 head of cattle. Their son continued ranching until the late 1960's. The family sold the property to the Colorado Department of Wildlife to keep it undeveloped. Before the land became a wildlife refuge the double-track was open to motorized traffic. In winter, the wide-open hinterland was a training ground for the Durango Nordic team. Now it is stone quiet back in this uninhabited quarter. There are occasional runners and neighborhood dog walkers.

Light-filled grasses imitate the sun-drenched cliff profile of Perins Peak.

When I frequented this pathway at the turn of the millennium it was faint and even nonexistent in places. Because the trail is open to foot traffic only, and so briefly, it still is vulnerable to becoming overgrown and obscured. There were ample opportunities to lose the trail in 2019 after a big winter. Old timers said the luxurious grasses were the tallest they'd ever seen.

The meadowland is framed with aspen and conifer on north-facing slopes. Piñon-juniper and Gambel oak look south.

Tumbled-down stone block masonry is all that remains of a homestead at 1.5 miles. A natural spring feeds a stock pond. It is filled with cattails now but at one time it was a significant water source. This peaceful setting was once a sanctuary for terminally ill people. They raised their own fruits and vegetables; farming implements remain scattered in the woods.

At 1.7 miles, the trail passes north of the North Perins Peak escarpment, the highpoint of the Perins cuesta. The view of the stone blade where scramblers may perch is sensational. (See the link above for directions.)

The valley tightens and the pathway grinds uphill through an old-growth ponderosa forest. At 2.7 miles there is a cattle pond south of the trail in the vicinity of a stately, dead ponderosa, pictured. Ten paces past the tree the trail splits. Take the right branch and climb in the trees a little further until you reach the highpoint of the hike at 2.8 miles, 7,700 feet.

The old trail (shown on the topo) veers southwest from the pond into an open valley, shown. It would be easy to get erroneously drawn onto this loose end that soon peters out.

 
The subtle divide is a typical turn-around location. From here all the gathered water runs west into the Dry Fork of Lightner Creek. There are occasional La Plata Mountain vantage points. Below, Silver Mountain rises above the foliage.

 
Barnroof Point, 8,723', shown, is a few feet higher and due west of North Perins Peak. Descend pleasantly to Dry Fork Road at 4.0 miles, 7,300 feet.

Below, hikers approach the turn-around for this hike. Those who want to put in a long day may turn right on the road and continue 0.6 mile to the Dry Fork Trailhead. The buff Dry Fork Loop trail system is 9.1 miles. The winter closure period is less restrictive: December 1 through April 15.