Wednesday, April 6, 2022

Point 6,060' Ridge, Esperero Spires, Mount Miguel, 4,340'

Essence: Point 6,060' is the highest column in a cluster of monoliths known to the climbing community as Esperero Spires. They are poised high on the divide between Esperero and Bird canyons on the Catalina Front. Access the south ridge of Point 6,060' from the Esperero Trail near Cardiac Gap. This is a classic Pusch Ridge divide hike with mind-bending views and two sets of standing rocks. Finagle through a challenging maze of walls and outcrops. Point 6,060' is a technical climb but you'll get very close on sublime Point 5,980', a solid block of stone. The trek concludes with an optional climb on the three prominences of Mount Miguel from Cardiac Gap. This hike is within the Pusch Ridge Wilderness, managed by the Coronado National Forest.
Travel: Begin from the overflow parking lot for Sabino Canyon Recreation Area. From the signal at the corner of Sunrise Drive and Sabino Canyon Road in Tucson drive north, passing the main entrance and following the sign for overflow parking. Turn right at 0.4 mile on paved FSR 805 at a sign for Southern Arizona Rescue Association. Drive through the gate and park in the northwest corner. Fee required. The pay station and privy are located by the trailhead for the park on the east side of the lot. No water! Gate opens at 6 a.m.
Distance and Elevation Gain: Esperero Spires out-and-back, 9.0 miles, 3,500 feet; Mount Miguel adds 0.5 mile and 250 feet 
Total Time: 6:00 to 8:00 depending on route
Difficulty: Trail (4 miles), off-trail (5.5 miles); navigation challenging; Class 2+ with mild exposure; wear long pants; be on the lookout for rattlesnakes; carry all the water you will need and hike on a cool day. 
Map: Sabino Canyon, AZ 7.5' USGS Quad
Pusch Ridge Wilderness: This hike lies east of the Bighorn Sheep Management Area so those restrictions do not apply. Dogs are not allowed in the Pusch Ridge Wilderness.
Latest Date Hiked: April 6, 2022
Poem:
I have been in many shapes
   before I attained this form.
I have been a drop in the air,
I have been a shining star.
A bridge for passing over
   three score rivers.
I have journeyed as an eagle,
A boat on the sea.
I have been many things...
--Taliesin, b. 534
 
It's not a stretch to imagine that the silent standing sentinels seen here from the highest reaches of the Esperero Trail were created from the stars.
 
Route: From the overflow lot hike on-trail to Cardiac Gap. Segue off-trail to the Point 6,060' divide and hike north to the Spires. Return as you came. The climber's plunge on the purple-line bailout route to the Esperero Trail is discussed but not recommended. Simple instructions for climbing Mount Miguel on the blue-line route conclude the post.
 
 
The standard Esperero Trailhead is located 0.7 mile from the Visitor Center at the Sabino Canyon Recreation Area (water, restrooms). This description avoids the hubbub and asphalt road by taking an unnamed trail frequented by locals to connect with the Esperero Trail. It shaves a mile each way and does not appear on maps.
 
I won't belabor the segment to Cardiac Gap. If you are considering this hike, you've no doubt been there countless times already. Walk northwest out of the lot, elevation 2,820 feet. The trail materializes in a sandy, open area. Flora is immediately Sonoran beautiful with signature saguaro, staghorn and teddybear cholla, prickly pear, brittlebush, palo verde and ocotillo. Below, hikers are looking at a cristate saguaro a short distance west of the trail. The Esperero Spires are visible from the parking lot and lower trail, image-center.

Important! At 0.3 mile the trail splits. Take the left fork and climb swiftly on swaths of bedrock. The highpoint of the shortcut trail has sweet views of town and Mount Wrightson to the south, Rattlesnake and Breakfast canyons to the east, and Bird Canyon to the west. Turn left on the Esperero Trail at one mile.
 
Switchback down into Bird Canyon, cross it at 1.3 miles, and climb to the crest of a ridge to its west. Contour into an unnamed tributary of Bird. Cut across it several times over the next mile to Cardiac. Of note: at 2.2 miles, two canyons join in a quiet, beautiful garden. The descent of Mount Miguel's east ridge rejoins the trail a few paces further on.

Continuing upward, the footpath leaves the canyon floor for good reason. The trail bypasses a 100-foot vertical, water-stained headwall with undercut caves. After storms a waterfall blasts over the pouroff. Enter the Bighorn Fire burn scar shortly before Cardiac. In June, 2020, a lightning strike ignited the fire on Pusch Ridge. By July, it had incinerated 119,987 acres. By April, 2022, invasive and opportunistic bufflegrass had infiltrated entire hillsides.
 
Alight on Cardiac Gap, elevation 4,420 feet, at 2.8 miles with about 1,800 feet of vertical already put away. It's easy to understand why this is a favorite fitness hike for locals. The grade is serious and consistent. Plus, the views over southern Arizona and on high to Cathedral Rock (image-left) are stellar. Stay on the trail to flank the end cap of the south ridge of Point 6,060'. Going over the top of it offers no advantage. 
 
Leave the Esperero Trail 0.15 mile beyond the Gap at a small hoodoo, 4,540 feet, and ascend northeast. 
 
It's a quick jump from the trail to the ridgeline. In 2021, the scorched earth was heartbreaking; even the barrels were burned leaving paper thin sea urchin forms. Easy walking free of undergrowth provided minimal consolation. In 2022, the ridge was clogged with grasses so thick and tall they were hard to plow through. The notorious Arizona blazing star (the dreaded Velcro plant) was an irritating nuisance. This image looks back on the end cap composed of stacked stones.
 
Walking north, two ridges run in parallel. The spine further east comes up from Point 4,863'. At 3.3 miles, 5,100 feet, they join forces at this stone hallway. You may pass through--into an alternate quantum reality? It is a powerful place. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

Emerge from the other side and you may feel you are on a pilgrimage to Stonehenge for on the next knob is a circle of eight standing stones.
 
Together, the formations are a harbinger of the Esperero Spire megaliths. The stacked rocks are reminiscent of the innumerable Catalina Granite rattles on Rattlesnake Peak. They are boulder inselbergs, resistant remnants of bedrock left on the surface as erosion wears back the mountain front. Weathering and erosion have enlarged sets of vertical and horizontal joints, dividing the bedrock into individual blocks. Weathering widens and deepens the joints and rounds the corners and edges of the blocks. (THW, photo)

At 3.6 miles, 5,400 feet, the divide splits again. Transfer to the ridge on the east, crossing a small drainage between them.

Soon, the ridgecrest is stripped down to big blocks and slabs. It's great fun to see which outcrops you can pass over and which leave you cliffed out. The wild spire-topped ridge across deeply incised Bird Canyon is a southwest spur off the principal south ridge of Rattlesnake Peak
 
Walk the rim to see whimsical creatures suspended over oblivion. (THW, photo)

At 5,600 feet, movement is complicated by a maze of walls, outcrops, and crevices. Confront a broad rib of rock at 4.0 miles. Navigation from here is a game of probes and missteps. Our first feeler just to the west of the nose left us cliffed out. Below, Point 5,980' and the crests of the two tallest monuments at Esperero Spires are visible.

Eventually we found a viable route west of an unusual and distinctive apricot-colored weathered fin wall, an important landscape marker. (THW, photo)
 
The passageway west of the wall got us to 5,700 feet. The next section is a steep, boulder-filled slot. Progress doesn't come easy. Just wiggle around heading north-northwest and eventually you will come to an accommodating ramp, shown.

Our goal on the second visit was a small stone prominence south of the main tower cluster we knew we could climb, Point 5,980'. First we scampered up its sub peak. Don't miss it!
 
Approach Point 5,980' from its north ridge. Avoid this hike when there is any chance of snow accumulation. In January, the east slope of the prominence was covered in a sheet of snow and moving about without an ice ax was treacherous. Nothing blocks a plunge into the canyon 900 feet below. On our hike in April, the exposure didn't register but it is there.

At 4.5 miles bliss out on Point 5,980', a series of rounded domes with a supreme vista. Captivating attention are the monoliths ahead. Looking at the image below, the tallest tower, Point 6,060' with a rise of 200 feet, is on the left or south. The vertical-walled rectangular stack to its right is the shorter north tower. Ranging further out is the ridge leading to Cathedral Rock, the Esperero-Ventana divide, Window Peak and Rattlesnake Peak just across the way.
 
I recommend turning around here and retracing your steps to Cardiac Gap. We hoped to find a Class 3 route up any of the towers so we went to investigate. We tried crossing the land bridge on the ridge cap but it soon cliffed out. So we flanked the spine tightly on its west. The soil was soft so footing was good, otherwise this would have been a risky ploy. Use caution. We didn't look on the east side of the bridge for a less exposed passage.
 
Back on the boulder-covered ridge, we were soon within a colonnade of free-standing ziggurats and longstones. We were able to squeeze between vegetation and the east wall of Point 6,060' to arrive on a tiny saddle between the south and north towers. 

Point 6,060' was sheer on all sides save a small weakness on the northeast. Definitely not Class 3. (THW, photo)
 
We dropped about 20 feet to the east and walked around the north tower but we couldn't find a scrambler's pitch anywhere.
 
I had read in Mountain Project that climbers walk four miles up the Esperero Trail and then "bushwhack to the climbs."  Curious, we decided to take the plunge, dropping 1,000 feet in half a mile on the purple-line route. We used an ultra steep, rubbly gully that pinches into a pouroff toward the bottom that must be bypassed. Sure enough, we reached the Esperero Trail two miles north of Cardiac. We were plastered with Velcro plant. This route is almost a mile longer than the ridge route and requires a 200 foot climb back up to the Gap. There was no evidence of recent climbing traffic at the Spires even though they have a powerful appeal from the trail.
 
Mount Miguel, 4,340' 
Return on the trail from Cardiac Gap or climb Mount Miguel. It is unranked with 120 feet of prominence. Below, it is the third rise on the descending ridge. We found it easiest to walk around the base of the block box starting on the north side. Be careful while hanging ultra high above Esperero Canyon. Then track south along its west side. On the south end there is a fun C2+ scramble up a crack with good holds. Views are fabulous from the box and it was the most enjoyable climb of the three.
 
It was simple enough to get up the middle knob but we had a heck of a time proceeding from there. It is best to retreat and bash through brush on its east side. It was rather unpleasant and slow. (THW, photo)

There was some evidence of a social trail from the north saddle of Mount Miguel at 4,220 feet. It starts up the center, veers slightly east, and gets back on the ridgetop. The mountain may be small but it sits south of other prominences on the Catalina Front so the views are unparalleled. 

Look deep into Esperero Canyon and up high to the Spires.
 
To descend, back down about 100 feet to contact the east ridge, shown. It requires a little consideration to follow the broad ridge while dropping 400 feet back to the trail. It is a shindagger rich environment. Aim to contact the Esperero Trail just above the confluence of two canyons at about 3,900 feet.
 
After a day among the rocks, dainty and ephemeral Santa Catalina Mountain phlox provides an entirely different form to contemplate. (THW, photo)

2 comments:

  1. Such beautiful country above Cardiac Gap, and fun to watch the hikers pass through below. We went only to the spires, but eating lunch on one felt like the top of the world. The grass is quite thick this year, but passable. From the overflow lot, note Debra's detail on the NW corner of the lot, NOT the obvious TH sign. There is a horizontal brown pipe with a left pointing white arrow painted on; the track begins immediately to the right.

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    1. Thanks for your important comment about finding the trailhead, Chris, and the grass report. Good job getting to the spires; it's not easy! I'm so happy you experienced the exhilarating sublimity of being amongst the cluster of stones. Debra

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