Saturday, September 27, 2025

INDEX

A complete hiking and climbing guide to the La Plata Mountains of Southwest Colorado. You will also find San Juan Mountain favorites as well as selections from around the Southwest. Link to the region you desire where you will find an alphabetical list of the hikes.
Thomas Holt Ward, photo

La Plata Mountains, Colorado 

San Juan Mountains, Rocky Mountains, Colorado 

Durango, Colorado and Locations Nearby

New Mexico and Texas

National Parks and Monuments

Southern Utah, Northern Arizona 

Southern Arizona

Sierra Nevada Mountains, Basin and Range Province

 
Field Guide!  Debra and her partner Tomás have published a hiking guide to the La Plata Mountains. Buy it at our local bookshop, Maria's in Durango, CO, or use this link:


Special thanks to CalTopo for the web tools used in constructing the maps on this blog.
 

The violets in the mountains have broken the rocks. Tennessee Williams

Debra Van Winegarden (Thomas Holt Ward, photo) 


Monday, September 1, 2025

Courthouse Mountain, 12,152', from West Fork Cimarron River

Essence: Approach singular Courthouse Mountain from the West Fork of the Cimarron River. The short but spectacular hike works well with a travel day to or from the Cimarron Mountains. The footpath winds steeply up through a deep conifer forest graced with sunny glades. It saddles next to the vertical escarpment on the east side of the mountain. Reach out and touch volcanism. Scramble up through stone leading into a fellfield, a mix of tundra and gigantic boulders. A rock-free grass slope culminates at the aerie crest, a linear stack of stone blocks. With a rise of 1,189 feet, the views are incomparable. Look southeast to neighboring summits thrusting abruptly from the West Fork. Only Courthouse is accessible by trail. To the southwest Mount Sneffels towers to 14,155 feet within its namesake wilderness. Northwest, the earth drops away toward the Colorado River, the lowest common denominator in the American West. The peak is within the Uncompahgre Wilderness managed by the Uncompahgre National Forest. LiDAR has increased the elevation of Courthouse to 12,165 feet. 
Travel: From the signal in Ridgway at the junction of US 550 and CO 62, drive north on US 550 for 1.8 miles. Turn right on CR 10 and measure from there. A blue sign with an arrow pointing east, a sign for Owl Creek Pass, and a turn lane for drivers going north precedes the turn. The gravel road is wide and graded but prone to washboard. At 3.9 miles CR 8 comes in on the left (a shortcut from US 550 for drivers coming from the north). CR 10 transitions onto CR 8. Cross Cow Creek at 4.9 miles. Enter the Uncompahgre National Forest at 7.7 miles and the road becomes FSR 858. At the 8.9 mile split, stay straight. Dodge potholes. Cross a cattle guard at Owl Creek Pass, 15.2 miles, elevation 10,114 feet. The road from Silver Jack Reservoir comes in on the left at 15.5 miles. Turn right at the sign for West Fork, FSR 860. Courthouse Trailhead (on the right) and parking (on the left) is at 17.0 miles. 2WD vehicles should be sufficient to reach the trailhead. There is plenty of dispersed camping near the trailhead. 
Distance and Elevation Gain: 3.8 miles; 1,850 feet
Total Time: 3:00 to 4:00
Difficulty: Trail; navigation easy; Class 2+ with mild exposure
Map: Courthouse Mountain, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quad
Latest Date Hiked: September 1, 2025
Poem:
i thank You God for most this amazing
day: for the leaping greenly spirits of trees
and a blue dream of sky; and for everything
which is natural which is infinite which is yes
 
e.e.cummings
 
You must step away, far away, to appreciate the magnificence of Courthouse Mountain with its cylindrical vertical walls and symmetrical conical cap topped with a stone cupola. Below, the vertical yearning of spruce clinging to the steep west slope of Fortress Peak mimics the columnar nature of the mountain, Chimney Rock, and the ridge between them. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

Route: From the Courthouse Trailhead hike southwest to the divide with Cow Creek. Turn northwest on the Courthouse Mountain spur trail. The footpath turns due west and ascends the east ridge of the mountain. Return as you came.

The Courthouse Trailhead on the West Fork, elevation 10,340 feet, marks the east end of Courthouse Trail #218 which begins at Cow Creek Road, FSR 857. The Courthouse Mountain spur trail begins on the divide, 0.8 mile west of the trailhead. 

The Ouray Trail Group maintains the footpath. Founded in 1986, they are a non-profit corporation of volunteers dedicated to the preservation and safe public use of Ouray area hiking trails. When the original footbridge was destroyed, the group replaced it with a shaved-off sturdy log. The hike begins with a balancing act.
 
You could climb the mountain from the west end of the Courthouse Trail but it's going to cost you an extra 5.3 miles and 2,180 feet of vertical. 

The boot-worn path is old, smooth, and pounded. The Ouray Trail Group is providing maintenance on the popular track with reroutes and blocked braids. With the exception of a hooting owl the woods were silent and the Engelmann spruce and Douglas fir emitted a strong presence. The trail gets right on up there. It's not obnoxiously steep but you'll be huffing and puffing right out of the box. 
 
Appropriately, pearly everlasting were still blooming but most wildflowers had gone to seed. This seed head was produced by cow parsnip. The plant can grow to eight feet tall with flower clusters eight inches across. The leaves function as platters the size of dinner plates that catch rain and snow. (THW, photo)

Cross a stream at 0.2 mile and the trail makes a shift to the southwest. The grade eases temporarily. Having hiked off-trail in these mountains the last couple of days, the treadway was a welcomed luxury. Morning sun filtered through trees onto the forest floor. The lush flora was thinking about turning gold. The moss on large, weathered, lichen-painted boulders was sparkling bright green after two nights of steady rain. (THW, photo)  
 
Arrive on the West Fork--Cow Creek divide at 0.8 mile, 11,020 feet. The land to the west of the divide, including Courthouse Mountain, is within the 102,721-acre Uncompahgre Wilderness designated in 1980. Points just outside the block of wilderness are Ouray (west), Silver Jack Reservoir (north), Lake City (east), and the Alpine Loop/Engineer Pass (south).
 
Turn north on the Courthouse Mountain Trail. The peak is one mile from this junction.  
   
The trail rises ever so gently for the next half mile on the east side of the ridge before engaging the ridgetop. Courthouse is glimpsed occasionally through heavy timber. Voilà! At 1.2 miles the perfectly vertical barrier cliffs are revealed on the south side of the striking summit structure. Morning sun enhances the blades, fins, and wings. It's so unusual to have such a grand view framed, but not obscured, by trees. (THW, photo)  

The image below is a closeup of the same wall taken a few minutes up the trail. It is an excellent example of volcanic breccia. In this case some mighty big boulders were included in the source material. Breccia is composed of broken rock fragments cemented together by a fine-grained matrix. In this case, the igneous clastic formation is associated with volcanic eruptions. The mountain is part of the San Juan Volcanic Field and is composed of layers of ash, tuff, and breccia.
 The soft, volcanic rock is highly susceptible to erosion which explains why the mountain is a sculpted wonder. (THW, photo)   
  
A free-standing outlier tower is located on the east ridge. The trail passes right next to it momentarily. 

But first, the path switchbacks up through a large, sunny meadow. Spent flower stalks were as tall as my head. Fireweed was just beginning to turn crimson, the signature autumn color for which it was named. 
 
Tall black-tipped senecio, a late summer flower, was still in bloom. Study the image below and it's obvious how this ragwort earned its name. (THW, photo)  

Zigzag alongside the east face of the mountain. 

The trail pivots at the base of the outlier tower and begins the westward climb up the east ridge. (THW, photo)  
 
At 11,500 feet, the east ridge affords an excellent view of Chimney Rock. For those experienced technical climbers, or simply the curious, please see Liba Kopeckova's SummitPost page for comments on climbing this "lonely tower." It was first climbed by Melvin Griffiths and Robert Ormes in 1934. Climbers debate whether Lizard Head or Chimney Rock is the most difficult peak to mount in Colorado. The climb up the South Face Crack is rated 5.6. Hazards include extreme rockfall, poor rock quality, and unprotected pitches. Further, the approach to the base of the "bastion of stone" is chossy, unprotected Class 4 and 5. (THW, photo)  

The trail grazes the globular flank of the mountain. (THW, photo)  
 
 
In the final strip of trees, the trail braids as hikers have struggled to stay on their feet on the sharp, dirt pitch. Do your best to stay on the winding, designated track.
 
Break out of the woods at last at 11,800 feet where all the fun is concentrated. From here, the trail can be a little disguised on the stone slope so let cairns guide you. Get a bead on the first cairn and scamper straight up the initial short wall, a Class 2+ scramble, shown. Check to see that the breccia nodules you are using for hand and foot holds are well cemented. 

The terrain eases a bit after the first pitch.  

This image looks down on the same patch of rock. Climbing up low-angle breccia is actually incredibly amusing. 
(THW, photo)  

The trail becomes obvious as it winds up through large, sharp-edged boulders resting on tundra. This is a fine example of a fellfield. As a mountain breaks down, the boulders fracture and disintegrate into talus and gravel. Over a long period of time the gravels stabilize and form soil. When stone fields are less than half covered with plants, they are called fellfields.  

Hop across a felsenmeer, "sea of rock," or blockfield.

This fellfield is both exquisitely beautiful and a total blast to hike through with its varying personality of boulders.  
 
The fact I'm bracing off stone implies the slope is a high-angle pitch. (THW, photo)  
 
The trail is trenched through the tundra on the conical cap. Stay on the trail when you can. If you do use the dirt stairsteps, get your feet lined up! (THW, photo)  
 
Do a Class 2+ scramble up the boulder blocks to the apex at 1.9 miles. For those concerned about exposure there's room to play around on the blocks without getting too close to the precipitous edge. There are plenty of sitting rocks for taking in the stellar views from this sub-range on the north end of the San Juan Mountains.
 
Experienced scramblers may cross the low Class 3 gap to the north block. The holds are good but watch the exposure. (THW, photo)  
 
This image was shot from the north block looking at the breach.
 
The South Face Crack on imposing Chimney Rock is obscured by morning shade. Owl Creek Pass is tucked under the standing rock. Flowing northward from there is Cimarron Ridge. 

This image looks back on the high point and the dreamlike collection of ranked summits above the West Fork of the Cimarron River: Precipice Peak, Fortress Peak, Redcliff, Coxcomb Peak, and U4. They are all exceedingly steep climbs through a pathless wilderness. 
 
I've been euphoric on the top of mountains my entire life. Yes! I hope that standing on this block summit makes you burst out with intoxicating laughter. This image was snapped on our first visit to Courthouse in 2012. (THW, photo)  

Looking southward, Mount Sneffels is featured most prominently on the northern front of the San Juan Mountains. We are so fortunate to have two non-technical routes up the tallest mountain in the region. Potosi Peak, image-left, is a technical summit climbed from Yankee Boy Basin. (THW, photo)  

When descending, be absolutely sure you are on the standard (upcoming) route. We redirected a hiker who was mistakenly starting down an irretrievable chute. When you get back to the trailhead, consider taking a few steps north on FSR 860. From the wide meadow there is an unimpeded view of three breathtaking peaks. Dunsinane Mountain is thought to be named for Dunsinane Hill referenced in Shakespeare's play, Macbeth. Dunsinane Hill was the site of a 1054 battle in which the Earl of Northumbria defeated Macbeth of Scotland. The much earlier Iron Age hill fort has long been known as Macbeth's Castle, though there is no archaeological evidence a castle existed during that time. 
(THW, photo)  

Directly north of Dunsinane is Turret Ridge. The highest point on the ridge crammed with "impossible looking spires" is Peak 12,260' (LiDAR 12,264'), image-right. The alternate name for this tempestuous peak is appropriately, "Shrew." It is considered Colorado's hardest twelver with a 5.9 rating.   

An unscalable escarpment armors Precipice Peak. From this vantage point it looks as if fingers of stone are holding the mountain in place. Navigation is challenging and the climb is ultra steep but the south ridge provides an unforgettable passageway to the summit. 

Viewed from FSR 858, this scene is at once tranquil and Wild America. The eye drifts from a moist meadow hosting a three-log corral to aspen just a couple of weeks away from donning the hues of autumn. The deep green conifer remain steadfast on the slopes below Courthouse Mountain and the Chimney Rock monolith born from primordial heat manifest in volcanism. 

Saturday, August 30, 2025

Precipice Peak, 13,144', from West Fork Cimarron River

Essence: Precipice Peak ("U2", LiDAR 13,141')) is located in the Cimarron Mountains on a north-south running divide between the West and Middle forks of the Cimarron River. A handful of ranked thirteeners thrust abruptly from the West Fork. Only Courthouse Mountain is accessible by trail. Precipice has few visitors so the developing social trail is faint and fragmented. The no-nonsense footpath is ultra steep as it ascends straight up through a deep forest and guides around or through gullies and cliffbands. Follow it as best you can. Precipice is acclaimed for its expansive views of fourteeners to the south and neighboring Cimarron peaks--unique and wonky with fanciful volcanic features. On our hike the mountain was enveloped in cloudland so this post focuses on the hiker's immediate surroundings and the fascinating character of the mountain itself. We enjoyed the climb and hope to return for vistas far and wide. Come see for yourself why Cimarron translates as "wild and untamed." The peak is in the Uncompahgre Wilderness managed by the Uncompahgre National Forest.
Travel: From the signal in Ridgway at the junction of US 550 and CO 62 drive north on US 550 for 1.8 miles. Turn right on CR 10 and measure from there. A blue sign with an arrow pointing east, a sign for Owl Creek Pass, and a turn lane for drivers going north precedes the turn. The gravel road is wide and graded but prone to washboard. At 3.9 miles CR 8 comes in on the left (a shortcut from US 550 for drivers coming from the north). CR 10 transitions onto CR 8. Cross Cow Creek at 4.9 miles. Enter the Uncompahgre National Forest at 7.7 miles and the road becomes FSR 858. At the 8.9 mile split, stay straight. Dodge potholes. Cross a cattle guard at Owl Creek Pass, 15.2 miles, elevation 10,114 feet. The road from Silver Jack Reservoir comes in on the left at 15.5 miles. Turn right at the sign for West Fork, FSR 860. Courthouse Trailhead (on the right) and parking (on the left) is at 17.0 miles. 2WD vehicles should park there. FSR 860 degenerates considerably 0.4 mile south of the Courthouse lot requiring 4WD low with high clearance. There is plenty of dispersed camping near the trailhead. 
Distance and Elevation Gain: 7.2 miles; 2,900 feet
Total Time: 5:00 to 7:00
Difficulty: 4WD track (3.8 miles), off-trail (3.4 miles); navigation challenging; Class 2+ with mild exposure
Maps: Courthouse Mountain; Wetterhorn Peak, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quads 
Date Hiked: August 30, 2025
Poem:
Clambering up the Cold Mountain path,
The Cold Mountain trail goes on and on:
The long gorge choked with scree and boulders,
The wide creek, the mist blurred grass.
The moss is slippery, though there’s been no rain
The pine sings, but there’s no wind.
Who can leap the world’s ties
And sit with me among the white clouds?
Han-shan, A.D. 627-650 (Gary Snyder, translation)
 
Evening light accentuates the sharp edges of the unscalable cliff encircling Precipice Peak. Fingers of stone separated by vertical fissures hold the mountain in place. During the day the shy peak was hidden in the cloudscape but as night drew near it revealed its emboldened heart. This image of the north face was taken from the floor of the West Fork near the Courthouse Mountain Trailhead.  

Route: Walk (or drive) south on FSR 860 to the Wetterhorn Basin Trailhead. Bear east-northeast on a scrappy social trail to the south ridge. Climb north to the peak and return as you came. 
  
From Courthouse Mountain Trailhead parking, elevation 10,340 feet, walk south up FSR 860. The road was crowded by Engelmann spruce loaded with cones and sporting new growth. The forest floor was lush with foliage beginning its transition to gold. We actually tried to drive up the 4WD track, thinking that after a night of heavy rain we might need a lift across the river. But the show-stopper seen below turned us around. If you can get past this clearance challenge, you can probably drive to the Wetterhorn Basin Trailhead.  
 
At it happened the ford of the West Fork at 1.1 miles was wide and shallow. We simply hopped across on a row of small stepping stones. Presumably this principle tributary is capable of running bank full. 

The road rose imperceptibly and entered the first of a series of meadowlands at 1.3 miles. Grasses grew on the up-fringes, willows crowded the river, conifers crawled up the lower slopes, and shafts of sun found a path through clouds to illuminate encircling mountains. The exquisite volcanic oddities shown below are "Fortress Peak," Redcliff, and Coxcomb Peak. 

Look over your shoulder to see Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Rock.
  
Arrive at the Wetterhorn Basin Trailhead at 1.9 miles, 10,760 feet. U4, Peak 12,986', is on the west rim of the basin, shown directly above the sign.

We stayed on the road to the start of the Wetterhorn Basin Trail. The route to Precipice Peak is eastward and off-trail from there.   

Below, Precipice is on image-left. It is climbed via its south ridge from the shared saddle with Fortress Peak. Water from the prominences on either side of the saddle gather into a gorge starting at about 12,200 feet. The route begins in the alluvial washout on the valley floor and climbs 2,700 feet in 1.7 miles, a stiff pitch.  

The peak is to the northeast. This route holds an east-northeast bearing to the south ridge. There is no trail to start. Make your way into the principle, rubble-filled drainage. 
 
The GPS tracks we had were all different. One trip report used brute force and plowed straight up the gorge to its head (efficient, but you would miss so much beauty!). In 2012, we started up Precipice but lightning bolts turned us around at timberline. In my field notes I wrote, "Is there a way that avoids climbing over 100s of logs?" Yes, we steered clear of the deadfall this time on a most helpful subtle social trail. We followed the drainage for awhile and pulled out before it deepened into a gorge. We tracked along the north edge of the gorge, grateful for guidance from periodic, well-placed "singletons" (one-rock cairns). 

The trail firmed up and, at about 11,120 feet, we moved away from the gorge and crawled up the hillside. The slope is steep steep ultra steep. If you do lose the human path, favor game trails. The locals are the terrain experts after all. 
  
At 11,440 feet, 2.4 miles, a substantial cairn rests on a mammoth boulder.
 
Oh glory! The cairn is placed at the base of a smooth tundra ramp with a gentle grade. Beyond is the last thin band of trees. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo) 
 
Bliss out. The trail is clear, the cairns are fanciful, and picas scurry about collecting winter fodder. They're everywhere. We are in a pica village. This image was snapped at treeline and  looks west to U4.

The route goes straight up the slope. Below, notice two large cairns leading the way. One is sitting on top of the block. 
 
The route skims to the south of a group of caves and then punches up through a minor cliff band to the right of the two knobs, image-center.
 
The slope is steep and the talus is loose. (THW, photo) 
 
Soon we were on delightful slanted slabs of bedrock.
 
The climb through the cliffband is playful Class 2+.   

At 12,200 feet watch for a three-foot-tall cairn signaling a shift to the south. It is important to nail this. The cairn, image-center, blends into the surrounding rock.

The route ascends in front of the gray stone rib and turns southerly above the clump of trees. 
 
Severe erosion has fashioned bizarre and mesmerizing stone features, only to leave them stranded. For a time, anyway. 

Scoot over a couple of swales to access the ramp to the saddle.

The grass ramp is free of large rock. The route engages the saddle north of the low point.

We arrived on the ridge at 3.2 miles, 12,720 feet. The saddle is interpolated at 12,660 feet. Clouds were swirling and gathering quickly. We were fortunate to see Uncompahgre, Matterhorn, and Wetterhorn peaks standing mightily and unmistakably in the south.
 
In September, 2012, we climbed Redcliff and snapped this image of Fortress, Precipice, and the saddle between them. It offers perspective on the remaining climb to the summit. (THW, photo)
  
On the east side of the divide was a confounding array of standing rocks--fangs, fingers, tusks, towers, turrets, and spires. It's a crazy assemblage of earth sculptures. (THW, photo) 
 
Unfortunately, the peak was enveloped in clouds and shrouded in mystery. The visual impairment felt rather spooky and slightly intimidating. (THW, photo)  

A thin trail skirts a short rock wall and returns to the ridge.   
 
The path makes for a small gap in two buttresses that are excellent examples of volcanic breccia. Breccia is composed of angular broken rock fragments cemented together by a fine-grained matrix. In this case, the igneous clastic formation is associated with volcanic eruptions. When climbing on breccia it is critical to test all holds to be sure the nibs and knobs are sufficiently glued to the foundation rock. As we learned on an eight hour failed attempt up Fortress Peak the day after this hike, the rubble exfoliated from breccia can be treacherous on super steep slopes. 

Climbing through the gap was exhilarating and fun.   

In this image, my partner is returning to the gap. There is some exposure when wrapping through the red soil. 

This image looks back on the gap from further up the slope. The rain the previous night enhanced our sticking power. 
  
Return to the ridgetop at 12,900 feet. I liked this mountain. It was an adventure. The route was anything but straightforward and obvious. The peak had so many surprises. (THW, photo)  

One such surprise was a Class 2+ brief workaround that was very exposed. Be religious about testing all your holds to make sure they are well glued! 
 
The ridge tapers to four feet or so. The rock surface is bubbly and fun. There's plenty of good footing to make the passage safely. 

I'd like to see these rosy-hued boulders under a brilliant sun.  

We were fooled by the false summit at 13,120 feet because visibility was limited. It was hard to tell if the highpoint was further north. Better keep going. There was one little downclimb and a simple lift to the true summit.
 
This image looks back on the false summit after a cloud drifted away.

We arrived on the small, rounded crest of Precipice Peak at 3.6 miles. We sat inside a cloud on weathered stones painted with multi-colored lichen. A tiny peak register placed in June, 2025, was tucked inside a Colorado Mountain Club canister. We couldn't see further than 20 feet so the precipitous nature of the mountain was lost on us. Because the peak is treasured for its radical views, check out the photographs by Liba Kopeckova and Monster5 in his Summitpost entry. 

For a quick moment we could see over the edge to turrets and needles on the east side of the divide as it resumed northbound to Dunsinane Mountain. 

This summit creature appears to be coming unglued but is hanging onto its garment of stones. (THW, photo)  

Who can leap the world’s ties
And sit with me among the white clouds?
 
Standing on top of any mountain is more than visually rewarding. There is an inevitable elevated state of consciousness. I am in a different reality than the one we'll return to a few hours hence. Having communicated with the mountain and offering companionship while touching its surface, I have a heartfelt sense of its idiosyncratic essence. It is satisfying to have found our way to the crest. I offer thanks to the mountain for allowing us passage. (THW, photo)