INDEX

A complete hiking and climbing guide to the La Plata Mountains of Southwest Colorado. You will also find San Juan Mountain favorites as well as selections from around the Southwest. Link to the region you desire where you will find an alphabetical list of the hikes.

Thomas Holt Ward, photo

Feature Hike: Canaan Mountain is an 8-by-10-mile block of Navajo Sandstone with many remote, mind-numbing features.

La Plata Mountains, Colorado 

San Juan Mountains, Rocky Mountains, Colorado 

Durango, Colorado and Locations Nearby

New Mexico and Texas

National Parks and Monuments

Southern Utah, Northern Arizona 

Southern Arizona

Sierra Nevada Mountains, Basin and Range Province

 

New Book!  Debra and her partner Tomás have published a hiking guide to the La Plata Mountains. Buy it at our local bookshop, Maria's in Durango, CO, or use this link:

About Debra and this blog.

Special thanks to CalTopo for the web tools used in constructing the maps on this blog.

 

An important message from author Steve Allen about tithing for wilderness.

The violets in the mountains have broken the rocks. Tennessee Williams

Debra Van Winegarden (Thomas Holt Ward, photo) 

Mollies Nipple, 7,271', Utah

Essence: Mollies Nipple is an isolated symmetrical Navajo Sandstone cone. The climb begins on a slab of brilliant white slickrock. The apex is composed of an exceptionally resistant and colorful layer of iron-rich sandstone, a variation within the same formation. From US 89 between Page, Arizona and Kanab, Utah, the peak looks improbable, if not impossible. Five miles of deep sand walking on the access track is a long slog, followed by increasingly difficult challenges. No special skills are required for the Class 3 scramble on the summit block to the Moll Benchmark but exposure is extreme. Each climber will need to pause and consider whether the 30-foot near vertical wall with an effectively bottomless base is a risk they are willing to take. The hike is within the Paria-Hackberry Wilderness Study Area, a unit in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, administered by the Bureau of Land Management.
Travel: From US 89 turn north at mile marker 36.8. The turn is just east of a highway bridge. Buckskin Wash is the drainage south of the bridge and Kitchen Corral Wash is north of it. BLM 508 is nicely graded. However, just before a wash crossing at 7.7 miles, the sand is probably too deep for 2WD. At 10 miles stay straight, following a sign toward Mollies Nipple. At 11.3 miles turn right/east on a 2-track for 100 yards and park between two sandstone knobs. This is an excellent place to camp. Your mileage will likely vary. Note: Continuing on the road looks tempting to start but it soon is covered in deep sand negotiable only by OHVs. There is a turnaround at 0.8 mile if you want to give it a shot.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 11.0 miles; 2,200 feet
Total Time: 6:00 to 7:00
Difficulty: Sandy track for 10.2 miles; 0.8 mile off-trail; navigation moderate; Class 3 with serious exposure; Carry all the water you will need and hike on a cool day.
Map: Deer Range Point, UT 7.5' USGS Quad
Date Hiked: May 12, 2025
Quote: Everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you are climbing it. Andy Rooney

 

The Colorado Plateau is essentially one massive sheet of Navajo Sandstone cut into huge segments by river systems. It forms deep canyons, cliffs running on for miles, lost world mesa tops, unscalable domes, perpendicular bluffs, world famous arches...and Mollies Nipple, a curiosity that begs to be answered. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

Route: Hike roughly east on a sandy track to Pilot Ridge. Go left at the split and hike northeast to the end of the road. Ascend an open slope and gain the south ridge. It leads to a Class 3 chute that terminates on the summit ridge. Climb east to the vertex of the cone.

We camped amongst elder piñon and juniper at the two sandstone knobs, elevation 5,900 feet. Five miles to the east, Mollies Nipple was burnished in evening twilight.

Five miles on the sandy track is the shortest route to the peak so find some pleasure in the long approach. The road ascends gradually to the base of the mountain with many undulations.

To the northwest, the White Cliffs holding up No Mans Mesa gleam in awakening light. (THW, photo) 

We crossed a sagebrush flat. Morning sun rendered our quest a striking silhouette. (THW, photo)

Blue berries encircled Utah junipers, the most predominant single species of tree in Utah, covering nearly one-fifth of the land area. The berries are eaten by rabbits, coyotes, and birds. The trees have a rounded crown and forked trunk. They can live to be 650 years old.

 

Growing on the woodland floor were yucca, snakeweed, Indian ricegrass, ephedra, rabbitbrush, and pricklypear. Wildflowers were not abundant this season but the purple bush pea was having a good year. Cold-desert phlox offered a sweet contrast with the tan desert monochrome. (THW, photo)

 

First place for vivid color was awarded to this Uinta Basin hookless cactus. (THW, photo)

This was a hike of solitude. The only tracks evident in the sand were from local critters: lizards, snakes, rodents, bobcats, and rabbits. Round off on Point 6,355' at 2.0 miles where the opening photo was taken. Looking north, the South Swag basin extends to Nipple Lake. According to Ron Adkison, (Hiking Grand Staircase-Escalante and the Glen Canyon Region), John Kitchen established Nipple Ranch adjacent to the lake in 1879. The peak is named after his wife, Molly. Give up 260 feet and ascend once again to a low ridge above Box Elder Canyon. From the ridgetop you see the Grand Staircase phenomenon in action. Above and behind the White Cliffs are the Pink Cliffs of Bryce Canyon National Park. 

The road splits on Pilot Ridge, 4.5 miles, 6,580 feet. The main road turned south and took most of the tire tracks with it. Take the north branch. But first, pause and consider your route on the cone. Variations are possible, especially since there is no guidance from cairns or social trail. It worked well for us to climb the fan slope in the center of this image until we made contact with the subtle south ridge. It delivered us to the one weakness that penetrates the summit ridge. (THW, photo)

Descend almost 100 feet, noticing the shiny black flat plates, iron concretions typical of Navajo Sandstone. 

(THW, photo)

We went to end of the road at the top of a small rise, a full-on dune. Alternatively, the climb could be initiated at the base of the final pitch.  

The road ends at 5.1 miles, elevation 6,620 feet. We rested among ponderosa pines. I stashed an extra liter of fluid to lighten my pack and changed into the approach shoes I'd been carrying. In retrospect, they were worth the trouble. The climb is 700 feet over 0.4 mile. We were there to savor and experience the mountain, not to rush, so we spent 1:45 round trip from this point.

 

There is more than one way to navigate on the cone. The one imperative on the lower mountain is getting set up to hit the south facing, white, ledge-filled chute. Our ascent route worked well and so we returned the same way. We began by crossing a swath of sand, heading toward the slickrock, image-right. (THW, photo)

The striking white slab is covered in rust-colored cap rock eroded from the upper mountain. We climbed northeast up an open slope, image-right.

 

Following our general rule of practice (ascend on a ridgeline unless forced off) we soon made contact with the south ridge. 

The ridge is steep enough to dislodge loose rock. By selecting my footing carefully I found stable slabs and blocks. Let the fun begin. (THW, photo)

The terrain is steepest and loosest just below the chute.

The south ridge passes by a multi-colored wall. Variations in the type and proportions of precipitated iron oxides create a multiplicity of hues in Navajo Sandstone. Pictured, lime-yellow and blue lichen further enhance the vibrancy of the vermilion, tan, rust, black, and maroon wall. 

I've been in plenty of nasty chutes. The term conjurers rolling boulders at the angle of repose. This break is a series of stable ledges. It is at once gorgeous and exhilarating. Low Class 3 climbing on the left side of the chute felt safe and protected. 

The chute ends abruptly at a five-foot-wide gap in the summit ridge. (THW, photo)

The highpoint is to the east, image-right. We considered going straight up the spine but instead stayed just below the ridgetop for a short distance. (THW, photo)

 

The traverse to a safe route back onto the ridge is funky but intuitive--up, down, and around. It's a total blast. 

The narrow ridge is airy and off-camber, slanted toward the south. 

The summit block requires a 30-foot near vertical Class 3 climb with heart-stopping, potentially catastrophic exposure. (THW, 15 photo composite)

To initiate the climb, a solid clean ledge leads to a block that serves as a bridge to the wall.

 

This is a Class 3, non-technical climb with superb holds for both hands and feet.  

However, it does take considerable courage to step out onto the wall. Before I assume this level of risk I always pause and have a conversation with the mountain I'm climbing. I show my genuine respect for the mountain by asking permission to climb. If I get an affirming vibe, I proceed. Considering the ten mile investment on the sandy road, we really didn't want to take a pass. This last pitch is not for everyone. Take responsibility for your safety. (THW, photo)

Arrive on the apex of the cone at 5.5 miles where you will find the Moll Benchmark placed in 1954. (THW, photo)

The apex is tiny but flat and thus, more comfortable than anywhere else on the summit ridge. The stones are covered in bird guano. With a rise of 1,251 feet and absolutely nothing impeding the full-circle field of vision, the views are expansive. I'm looking northwest toward No Mans Mesa and the White Cliffs. The Deer Range is image-right. The Pink Cliffs of Bryce Canyon are on the horizon. Navajo Mountain, distinguished by its softly rounded form, is visible off-image in the east. (THW, photo)

The cluster of sandstone pinnacles to the southeast host Starlight Arch. (THW, photo) 

We didn't spend a lot of time on top because of high velocity winds. The gusts were so fierce I got blown over on the south ridge descent. This image looks from the peak at the semi-circular summit ridge. The access chute is directly across from the photographer. The descent from the block is a simple, comfortable downclimb, no more difficult than the ascent. When exposure is grave, I mitigate anxiety by not looking down any further than my next move. Upon returning to our gear stash, we both agreed that climbing Mollies Nipple was a spectacular and pleasurable adventure. 

(THW, photo)

Calico Peak, 5,882', Utah

Essence: Calico Peak presides over the Paria ("Pahreah") Townsite inhabited from 1870 to 1929, and more recently used as a location for filming Westerns. The lower slopes of Calico are composed of brilliantly colorful Chinle Formation. The relatively short hike begins in a small canyon with tight, sinuous Chinle narrows. The butte-like summit is armored with an encircling barrier wall. The charm of this hike is scaling a weakness in the escarpment granting access to the extended crest. The hike is in the Paria-Hackberry Wilderness Study Area, a unit within the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, administered by the Bureau of Land Management.  

Travel: Between Page, AZ and Kanab, UT on US 89 there is a sign posted for Paria Townsite and a historical marker at mile marker 30.8. Turn north on BLM 585 and cross a cattle guard right away. The graded track is prone to washboard. Enter the GSENM. The road comes to a Y at 4.4 miles. To proceed directly to the start of the hike take the road to the left, a shortcut to BLM 584. The right branch goes by the Paria Movie Set Day Use Site with picnic tables and a pit toilet. (The movie set was destroyed by fire in 2006.) 2WD vehicles should park there, adding about a mile each way to the hike. Take the first left after the day use site on BLM 584, Paria Breaks Road. Enter the Wilderness Study Area. Wash crossings are sharp and deep requiring 4WD high clearance. After the fifth crossing, open and close the gate. At 5.3 miles, the road hooks sharply left. The access canyon is on the right at the apex of the bend. We parked in a one-vehicle pullout just before the canyon.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 5.2 miles; 1,200 feet
Total Time: 4:00 to 5:00
Difficulty: Off-trail; navigation moderate; Class 2+ with mild exposure at the base of the cliff wall.
Maps: Fivemile Valley; Calico Peak, UT 7.5' USGS Quads

Reference: Thank you Kent and Allison Couch for an electrically enthusiastic and informative trip report on Calico Peak. See the end of their post in Beyond My Couch for a link to a GPS track. 
Date Hiked: May 11, 2025
Quote: Color! What a deep and mysterious language, the language of dreams.
Paul Gauguin

 

Calico Peak is a stand-alone butte west of the Paria River adorned in shades of variegated sinopia. Its allure is embedded in its mysterious nature. Is there a hidden passage through the rampart and where is it?

Route: Hike northwest up a side canyon of a west tributary of the Paria River. Climb out of the canyon and ascend north to the base of the escarpment. Hug the wall while curving around to the northwest side of the peak. Locate a break in the cliffs and scramble to the top of the butte. Traipse southeast to the highpoint.

There is no formal pullout near the access canyon. Do your best not to damage the fragile desert. Our makeshift parking pullout, elevation 4,820 feet, preceded the canyon entrance by a few steps. 

The northwest bearing side canyon is nondescript to start. Walls are composed of mudstone eight to ten feet tall. The floor was clean and firm, walking was fast. The first side canyon entered upcanyon-left at 0.25 mile. Stay in the main canyon as feeders join. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

The serpentine canyon constricted and deepened as we progressed. We referred to the drainageway as the "Chinle Narrows." The peak derives its name from the colorfully banded Chinle Formation displayed on its lower slopes. The Chinle is associated with the Upper Triassic epoch, 237 to 201 million years ago. Mudstone contains alternating coarse-grained sandstone, siltstone, claystone, and nodular limestone. The formation forms steep, smooth slopes 500 to 700 feet thick. (THW, photo)

We knew that if a significant rockfall occurred in this critical access canyon we'd be cut off from the peak. Thankfully, any impediments were easily surmounted.  

 

Some of the boulders piled up on the canyon floor were covered in thin glistening shavings, likely mica. (THW, photo) 

 

Prince's plume was blossoming profusely and attracting pollinators. (THW, photo) 

The canyon clutters up a bit and then ends in a bowl at 1.3 miles, 5,100 feet. There are several options for exiting, none of them terribly appealing. We mounted the gully shown, image-right. Take care. It is steep and loose, and the rock is poised at the angle of repose. This short pitch is the one and only unpleasant aspect of this hike. (THW, photo) 

The terrain eases considerably upon emerging from the canyon. (THW, photo) 

 

I was surprised by the proximity of the butte. We knew the break in the cliffband was on the northwest side of the mountain. So our next objective was to reach the base of the escarpment toward the left. The way is intuitive. Free of the canyon we walked through a rich garden of piñon-juniper, rabbitbrush, pricklypear, hedgehog, snakeweed, ephedra, ricegrass, and buffaloberry. 

Raspy sandstone boulders rested on the Chinle. The rock masses broke from the cliffs above and slid down the steep slope without disintegrating. (THW, photo)

It was easier than it looked at first to weave our way through the block landslide deposits. We intended to contact the wall to the left of the alluvial fan, shown. 

 

We passed a small cliffband on its east and stood at the base of the cliffs at 1.8 miles, 5,580 feet. The armoring encompassing Calico Peak is composed of two different sandstones. The lower unit is Moenave Formation from the Lower Jurassic era. It is reddish orange, fine-grained, and forms massive planar vertical sandstone beds, 200-300 feet thick. Watch for ripple marks.   

Hug the wall while walking northwest and then north. The walking platform is not super generous but it's not terribly exposed. It goes without saying, watch your footing on unstable rock. 

Grateful for the track we downloaded, we passed the first tempting weakness. Trip reports suggest there are alternative routes, Class 3 and higher. I have seen countless bleached, iron reduction spots in red beds but never one three inches across. We passed this disk about three minutes before coming to the weakness in the cliffs we were seeking.  

 

At 2.1 miles we arrived at the promised break in the Moenave Formation. This marks the beginning of the best part of the hike--the climb to the summit ridge and walking along the top of the butte.  

It was great fun, gaining a few feet, then weaving to and fro while seeking a way to achieve a few more. Keep track of yourself for the return trip.

There were sporadic cairns. We supplemented the instructive ones on our return. At 5,700 feet we did a lateral to the south and passed between this juniper and the wall.

On this route it is imperative to locate and pass through a thin crack between massive boulders, shown. 

(THW, photo) 

This image looks back at the crack. (THW, photo) 

We topped out on the roof of the butte at 5,820 feet. Welcome to the Kayenta Formation. The Kayenta fractures horizontally forming ledges and welcoming walking platforms. It can be up to 330 feet thick but here it simply caps the top of the butte. (THW, photo) 

The Kayenta comes in shades of tans and pinks and even white. The stone on the butte has weathered into whimsical shapes. 

We walked out to the north end of the butte to watch the Paria River flowing to the southeast constrained by the prismatic pigments of the Chinle Formation. Powell Point is on the horizon in the center of this image and the Kaiparowits Plateau is center-right.

Bearing south to reach the highpoint we walked on the flat tops of weathered pink boulders.  

What I thought was the obvious summit turned out to be an imposter. Keep going! 

Calico Peak has an impossibly sweet finish.

The summit block is a couple of massive boulders resting against each other. (THW, photo) 

We stood on the airy but comfortable highpoint at 2.6 miles. The smooth wire draped all about is the remnant of a survey tripod. Between the isolation and a rise of 502 feet, the views are phenomenal. (THW, photo) 

In the west are the tippy tops of several Navajo Sandstone features. Starting on the left is the southern set of "White Teepees" followed by flat-topped Peak 6,780'. The northern set of White Teepees (Point 6,604' on Pilot Ridge) is barely visible. And finally, Mollies Nipple has a dark, iron-rich summit.

To the southeast the Paria River is about to pierce The Cockscomb. The Paria Township is across the river and due east of the symmetrical hill. Navajo Mountain is the massive dome on the horizon, image-center. 

I'll conclude with a few informative photos. This study in the color red is the unnumbered point immediately east of the Paria Movie Set Day Use Site. The photo was shot from our camp off BLM 584. There was no traffic on the road, with the exception of a cowboy moving a small herd of cattle. 

 

From the historic cemetery the summit of Calico Peak is ever present. (THW, photo)

The Historical Marker on US 89 displays the ripple marks typical in Moenave Formation. The view of Mollies Nipple is more comprehensive than it was from the peak. (THW, photo)

For students of history, here's a closeup of the Pahreah Historical Marker. (THW, photo)