Safford Peak, 3,563' (Sombrero Peak), and Panther Peak, 3,435', Saguaro National Park

Essence: Safford Peak, visible from I-10, Tucson, and regional high points, is a well-loved local's favorite. Panther Peak calls out from the Safford summit but the traverse across the west ridge is technical. Described is a pleasant link route at the base of Safford's north wall. Safford is a short and playful climb. Once you are on your way to Panther you will be hiking in solitude. Navigation skills and familiarity with off-trail hiking in the Sonoran Desert are necessary. The two peaks are the northernmost summits in the Tucson Mountains and Saguaro National Park West.
Travel: Measure from Cortaro Road and Silverbell Road. Travel north 1.9 miles and turn left on Continental Reserve Loop (the north entrance). Turn right on Pima Farms Road at 2.4 miles. At the stop sign turn left on Scenic Drive (the only choice) at 3.1 miles. At 3.5 miles turn right, go through a beautiful fence, and park at Sanctuary Cove. Donations requested. Alternatively, to begin hiking at the Saguaro National Park boundary, continue on Scenic Drive to its end in a tenth of a mile. Park on the right where the road turns to dirt. No fees, no dogs.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 6.8 miles; 2,800 feet of climbing; your statistics may vary; carry more water than you think you will need.
Total Time: 4:30 to 6:30
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation somewhat challenging; Class 2+ with mild exposure on Safford's subsidiary peak
Map: Trails Illustrated, Saguaro National Park, No. 237
Latest Date Hiked: April 6, 2019
Poem:  
Whole symphonies…
live between
here and a distant whatever-we-look-at. Richard Hugo

From the backslope of Panther Peak the two rounded summits of Safford create a distinctive sombrero appearance. Both mountains are composed of various volcanic formations which geologists refer to as Tucson Mountain Chaos. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

Route: Begin either in Sanctuary Cove or at the National Park Service trailhead (blue-line route) and hike to the saddle east of Safford. Hook around to the south of Safford and then head north to the west ridge. Climb the peak and then return to Safford's north shoulder. Leave the trail and traverse west to Panther Peak. (While the yellow-line route will tempt you, it may not go. See Mojave Ben's comments at the end of this post.) Return to the Panther and Safford saddle and drop steeply in a north-facing draw to the desert floor. Hike east and rejoin the incoming route, finishing in Sanctuary Cove. Note: this topographic map has 20 foot contours.

It is a granted privilege to use the Sanctuary Cove trails to access Saguaro National Park so be respectful and consider leaving a small donation in the designated box. There are no trailhead signs--a short trail links the parking lot with a dirt road going west toward the chapel.

Alternatively, the blue-line route begins at the end of Scenic Drive. Walk through a fence and get on the Scenic Trail. It is 1.2 miles to the saddle.

Viewed from the trailhead it is clear why Safford is informally named Sombrero.

Safford Peak, 3,563'
This description begins in Sanctuary Cove, elevation 2,220 feet. The road narrows to a trail once past the All Creeds Chapel.

Beautifully stenciled steel signs identify common Sonoran plants.

The trail braids in 0.4 mile. I learned later that the established path continues straight ahead a tenth of a mile before making a very long switchback (purple line on the map above). It will be a better experience for both you and the land to stay on the principal trail. Not knowing it was a shortcut we hung a left at the branch and went up a very steep pitch to rejoin the main track as it rises to the north ridge of Safford. This image looks south to the east saddle where the routes meet from the alternate trailheads.

Both Safford and Panther Peaks are visible from the ridge. (THW, photo)

Reach the east saddle at 0.9 mile, 2,650 feet. When I climbed Safford in 2012, there were multiple braids hence forth but now the trail is clearly defined as it bears west up a steady grade and brittlebush give it their all.

At 1.2 miles, 2940 feet, arrive on the north shoulder of the mountain. Take careful note of this little flat; it is where the traverse to Panther takes off after the Sombrero climb. The peak trail turns south and pitches up to flank the mountain at the base of the east wall. In early April, Ajo lilies were growing amongst rocks right on the trail platform.

The footpath wraps around to south side of mountain. We were grateful for this thin thread clinging to pitched slopes. There is some braiding in here and hikers have wandered too far downhill on the return; stay at the base of the cliffs. As the trail pivots the view is ever-changing and never-ending. Behind me are the Tortolita Mountains. (THW, photo)

A line of elder statesmen stand between us and Wasson Peak and its companion Amole Peak. (THW, photo)

The trail gives up 150 feet and then swings northwest to initiate the climb to the west ridge. Make every effort to stay on the cairned route.

Gain the west ridge at 3,400 feet and turn east. Punch through a gap in the armored summit ridge. Those who enjoy rock play will be elated with this mountain.

The higher of the two prominences is south.

Crest the surprisingly roomy Safford summit at 1.7 miles after 1,420 feet of climbing. There were many notebooks in the peak register, an ammo-box chained to a rock. "Tip of the hat to you," wrote my hiking partner while pulling up one of many sitting stones. A private plane out of the Marana Regional Airport buzzed the top twice and tipped his wing. He flew off and it was still and silent. We felt a sense of deep calmness perched so high above the urban world. Having looked at Sombrero from Wasson Peak over the years it was rewarding to reverse the perspective.

There is mild exposure on a short quasi-knife leading to the subsidiary peak. The holds are good and strong but if it makes you uneasy, skip it. (THW, photo)

Getting over to Panther via the west ridge is harder than it looks with Class 5 obstacles. Therefore, we decided to traverse at the base of the crags, shown.

Panther Peak, 3,435'
Retrace your steps to the north shoulder of Safford at 2.3 miles. Spring flowers in 2019 were outrageous and the little flat was covered in fire-orange Mariposa lilies. (THW, photo)

The traverse to the Safford and Panther saddle is pretty straightforward. You will give up about 200 feet no matter how you work it. Head a ravine at 2,920 feet. Then track under Safford's north wall, staunch, silent, and full of personality. It was shady and moist so the plant community was thriving and a canyon wren was singing out its descending cascade of laughter.

The brush thins beyond the wall. Start climbing once again and top the minor rock band, shown.

Now you will get a good look at the last scarp east of the Panther saddle. The most efficient route would be to track right under the rampart but it is troubled with cliffs. Instead, we ascended a slope that turned out to be magnificent. There were breccia slabs and resurrection moss growing in the cracks.

From the rim we had a bird's-eye-view of the Panther Peak Boulders. Mountain Project claims it is, "One of the most concentrated collections of boulder problems in Southern Arizona."

From the precipitous perimeter we looked across to the (unexpected) trail climbing the Panther backslope.

On the south edge we dropped through a weakness in the cliff band. It put us on a comfortable ledge above the bouldering garden and right under the barrier wall with its strong presence.

Drop to the saddle at 3,040 feet. Panther Peak is a classic cuesta, an asymmetrical ridge with an escarpment north, west, and south, and a long and mellow backslope. The trail up the east ramp is well trodden. Desert globemallow and brittlebush enliven the way through barrel cactus, saguaro, and palo verde. 

Crest the mountain at 4.0 miles. Panther Peak has a big, broad summit with resting rocks poised on the brink of the precipice. It was so good to be here after looking at this peak multiple times from Safford and Wasson. The quarry at Twin Peaks is one of several in the Marana area.

Back to the Trailhead
Return to the saddle. We could have doubled back on the traverse route but we wanted to experience more territory so we dropped into the draw that heads north from the saddle. The north rampart of Panther is to the west and there are outcrops on the east. We were surprised and delighted to find a distinct social trail.

The unnamed trail plunges steeply. There are cairns on big boulders in the lower reaches.

On the bajada look east to locate the low point in the Safford north ridge where we will close the loop.

Intersect an equestrian trail running along the fenced northern boundary of the national park at 5.1 miles, 2,250 feet. Walk east passing by a saguaro super nursery residing below the draw on the desert floor.

In spring, hedgehogs crank out brilliant blossoms. (THW, photo)

It is a fast traipse across the desert. At 5.9 miles the trail passes through a locked gate at the park boundary. Standing between a locked gate and a trail closed sign we were mystified. Why is there a social trail in the draw, an established treadway on the desert floor, and then abandonment? We started up the slope to the north ridge and soon stumbled on a cairned route with signs of recent use.

We hit the north ridge trail at elevation 2,560 feet. This image was shot at the junction looking north, 0.1 mile south of the NPS boundary.

Back in Sanctuary Cove we walked into the open chapel. After a day of communion with the earth we appreciated the plain and simple construction and peaceful ambience. (THW, photo)