Pagosa Peak, 12,640', Via Anderson Trail

Essence: Pagosa Peak is the highest point on a mountainous landmass bound by the East Fork of the Piedra River and Fourmile Creek. Visible in the north from Pagosa Springs it has both landmark and beacon status. The standard route, a moderate hike, approaches the summit from the west. The description here launches from the Anderson Trail. The way is long, the off-trail pitch is ultra steep, and navigation is difficult. Complete the climb on the standard south ridge trail. The hike is within the Weminuche Wilderness, San Juan National Forest.
Travel: Measure from US 160 and 5th Street in Pagosa Springs. For those coming from the west this is the first signal intersection at the bottom of the hill into downtown. Turn north and immediately fork left. The road transitions to Archuleta County Road 400. The graded gravel road is suitable for 2WD vehicles. Bear right at the split at 5.1 miles. Go over a cattle guard at 7.5 miles. The road transitions to FSR 645 and climbs through an aspen forest. There is a Y at 8.4 miles. Go right, following the sign toward Fourmile Trailhead. Cross Cade Creek at 11.5 miles. The road ends at the trailhead at 13.3 miles. The first parking lot is designed for horse trailers; park in the second lot. Pit toilet, no water.  
Distance and Elevation Gain: 11 miles; 3,850 feet of climbing
Total Time: 6:30 to 8:30
Difficulty: Trail, off-trail; navigation challenging; steep slopes; no exposure
Map: Pagosa Peak, Colorado 7.5' USGS Quad
Date Hiked: July 20, 2019
Quote: Never does nature say one thing and wisdom another.  Juvenal, 1st century AD

Afternoon light quickens a cluster of ponderosa pine and a freshly mowed hay meadow south of the Pagosa Peak mountainscape.

Route: Hike north on the Anderson Trail for 4.3 miles. At a westward switchback, 11,040 feet, leave the trail. Drop into and back out of three ravines and scale steep slopes to the saddle at 11,540 feet. Take the standard trail on the south ridge to the summit. Return as you came.  

Anderson Trail 
Two trails leave from the parking area, elevation 9,200 feet. The more popular Fourmile Trail #569 begins to the right of the registration box. Anderson Trail #579 is on the left. Please register at the trailhead. The Anderson Trail was adopted by the San Juan Backcountry Horsemen. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

The treadway is well engineered with a consistent grade and walking is smooth and easy. Cross a stream at 0.6 mile and then another. Tall conifers are mostly standing dead, ravaged by beetles, but young trees are thriving. The aspen wood is perhaps the finest feature of the trail with thick and vibrant ferns on the forest floor. We were a little surprised to see moose scat beside the path. (THW, photo)

Walk a few paces out on volcanic breccia to look out over Eagle Peak and Eagle Mountain east of Fourmile Creek at one mile.

Cross into the Weminuche Wilderness at 1.1 miles. The path gains elevation while tracking above the Fourmile Creek river valley. It swings from northeast to northwest while wrapping below Point 11,551'. Now above an unnamed west fork of Fourmile Creek, Pagosa Peak comes into view at 2.3 miles. (THW, photo)

In July, 2019, we came to greatly appreciate the trail-clearing services of the San Juan Backcountry Horsemen. They had gotten as far as 2.5 miles. From there on we were crawling under, climbing over, and going around fallen trees. 

Cross the west fork at 2.9 miles, 10,340 feet. Begin a series of switchbacks. Our goal was to find a viable route to the south ridge saddle. Absent information, we stopped frequently to analyze the territory. Nothing looked appealing.

Off-Trail to South Ridge Saddle 
After some debate (we considered leaving the trail at a higher elevation), we decided to abandon the trail at the end of a west probing switchback at 4.3 miles, 11,040 feet. This off-trail segment proved to be quite difficult. We crossed two steep-walled ravines, a third drainage, and climbed a seriously steep slope. In retrospect, this may well be the best location to launch toward the saddle, image-left. If you know of a better route, please leave a comment.

There were a couple of cairns at our departure place, shown below, but then they were absent until we were on the final small ridge below the saddle.

Dive into the first ravine, the upper reaches of the west fork of Fourmile Creek. In July, snow was still present on the slide path. Claw your way up the pitch on the west side. The saddle is visible periodically which assists in orienteering.

This image looks back at the Anderson Trail location from the rise west of the first ravine.

Drop into the second gully, also an avalanche runout zone.

This route stays below and away from the volcanic wall heading the ravines. (THW, photo)

Climb an in-your-face-steep green slope. At about 11,160 feet, transition left to avoid a volcanic throat and to get positioned for the saddle. Cross an open rocky creek at about 11,180 feet where it is shallowest. Now climb west up onto a ridgelet and follow it toward the saddle. If you're on the correct path, you'll spot a few cairns about 300 feet below the saddle.

South Ridge Trail
We intersected the standard trail just above the saddle at 4.9 miles, 11,560 feet. The south ridge ascent has a reputation for being steep and somewhat loose but after the off-trail explosive effort, it felt like a breeze. It is a delightful ridge walk with no exposure. There are two false summits, the first is shown below. The path begins right on the ridge, diverts west for a short distance, and then returns prior to the top of the false peak at 12,200 feet. 

The best segment of the entire hike is on the naked ridge. Below, a deep purple fringe is rooted and blooming amongst the stones while a storm cell rapidly masses to the northwest. (THW, photo)

Alpine bluebells, moss campion, and phlox enliven the straight-forward and exhilarating climb to the second false peak. 

Lose only 20 feet before the quick zip to the summit at 5.5 miles.

Pagosa Peak is a linear ridge summit known for its views, especially for locals who know the territory. This was our first climb in the region so it was an unfamiliar world. To the east well beyond Eagle Mountain and Peak are the mountains strung along the Continental Divide.

Our plan was to venture north to Peak 11,603' (image-center) and then drop to Upper Fourmile Lake.

We'd have to plunge down a steep open slope to avoid the broken ridge on the west. However, the electrical storm was overtaking us faster than I could shoot photos.

We wisely decided to return on our known, upcoming route. We were pounded by hail and pulsed by electricity just as we reached the Anderson Trail. (THW, photo)

The winter of 2019 lingered well into spring and the wildflowers were abundant. Here are the 55 blooming species we identified in order of appearance: mountain parsley, bedstraw, white and pink geranium, osha, orange sneezeweed, cow parsnip, native honeysuckle, Whipple's penstemon, chainpod, delphinium, thimbleberry, meadow rue, Indian paintbrush, snowberry, purple vetch, death camas, dotted saxifrage, strawberry, heart leaf arnica, elderberry, candytuft, bluebell, corn husk lily, Solomon's seal, baneberry, white and purple violet, western valarian, current, ball-head waterleaf, senecio, blue and red columbine, Jacob's ladder, moss campion, snowball saxifrage, drummond rockcress, king's crown, alpine avens, phlox, purple fringe, old man of the mountain, minuartia, potentilla, green gentian, white peavine, harebell, fern leaf lousewort, fleabane daisy, cinquefoil, caraway, yarrow, and clover. The wood's rose was not surprisingly awarded the grand prize for the loveliest scent. (THW, photo)