Big Horn Peak, 3,480', Big Horn Mountains

Essence: The Big Horn Mountains are located west of Phoenix and north of I-10. Big Horn Peak is the highest prominence in the southeast to northwest running range. Driving from the west, we saw the distinctive landmark from the Interstate 30 miles away. This approach from the south is best suited for climbers who relish a challenging navigation puzzle. The climb will speak to those who delight in a sustained Class 3 scramble. Finish with a flourish while climbing a 50-foot crack up the small summit cone. The hike is within the 21,000-acre Big Horn Mountains Wilderness administered by the Bureau of Land Management.
Travel: Leave I-10 at Exit 81, Salome Road. Measure from the end of the westbound exit. Salome Road heads northwest. Turn right at 0.5 mile onto a dirt road that parallels a canal on its east side. Drive under power lines at 3.4 miles. At 4.0 miles, hang a right (the only option), and travel east. All routes up Big Horn must first cross the Central Arizona Project canal on a footbridge. If there is a standard route, it crosses the canal at 4.1 miles. This way is longer than our route and is bifurcated by deep arroyos so keep driving. The road turns south. Turn left at 4.6 miles under power lines onto BLM 9357. Park at a tower pad a little past 5.8 miles at marker 1368 on the topo.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 6.0 miles; 2,200 feet of vertical.
Total Time: 5:00 to 6:30
Difficulty: Off-trail; navigation most challenging; Class 3 with moderate exposure on the summit block; teddybear cholla warning--wear long pants; hike in winter months and take all the water you will need.
Map: Big Horn Peak, AZ 7.5' USGS Quad
Date Hiked: January 14, 2020
Quote: We are by nature observers, and thereby learners. That is our permanent state. Ralph Waldo Emerson

Pretend you are a bighorn sheep. This muscular mountain demands agility and intimate familiarity with desert landscapes. Scamper up the core on the south ridge, image-center.

Route: There are several alternative approaches to the summit documented on the internet. Do your research and take your pick. Cross the CAP canal on a footbridge. Walk north and ascend the west slopes of Point 1,855'. Climb northeast to a broad platform. Turn north on the south ridge. Dodge a cliff band on the west at 2,700 feet. Work your way over to the south ridge spine and center punch it to the east ridge. Climb the summit cone from the east. Cairns are infrequent throughout the hike. They are useful for reassurance but not guides. The description that follows is divided into segments to assist with navigation. This topo uses 20 foot contours. 

Footbridge to the Saddle North of Point 1,855'
From the tower pad at elevation 1,368 feet, walk north-northeast across the open desert. The going is easy while weaving around creosote bush, palo verde, and mesquite. Cross the human and wildlife footbridge over the canal at 0.4 miles. Climb the embankment, shown. Cross a dirt road, descend and cross a second road. You are on BLM public land to the wilderness boundary.

Continue walking north, staying east of Points 1,528' and 1,458'. This is classic Arizona countryside with saguaro growing amongst volcanic blocks.

Somewhere in the vicinity of 0.6 mile you will encounter a barbed-wire fence. Roll under the fence and enter the Big Horn Mountains Wilderness. Pick a spot that looks appealing and ascend the west slope of Point 1,855', image-center. Your objective is to gain the saddle north of the armored butte. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)

Southwest Ridge
Arrive on the small saddle at 1.5 miles, 1,730 feet. There are two small prominences on the southwest ridge ahead. Ascend northeast staying west of the initial rocks jutting on the crest. Then flank the first knob, shown, on the east.

Descend into a minor saddle and then climb the second prominence composed of thick, angular rock plates.

I chose to climb right up the backbone. This image looks back on Point 1,855' and the canal. (THW, photo)

The ridge broadens to a platform at 1.9 miles, 2,300 feet. We floated up through the park; the only impediment was teddybear cholla.

South Ridge to East Ridge
The ridge makes a 90 degree turn to the north at 2.1 miles, 2,400 feet. This is the south ridge proper but it has wildly contrasting characteristics at different elevations. Looking at the image below, my partner is on the east side of the ridge heading north. Notice the sloping, chocolate-colored cliff band at the top of the open slope. It must be skirted on the west.

At 2.6 miles, 2,700 feet you will be alongside the escarpment. We made the effort too complicated on our ascent and went well past the wall and into a messy gully before escaping. We perfected the route on the descent. So, once around the west corner, ascend at the base of the wall. Scramble up at the first break in the cliff. We placed a cairn at this location at about 2,770 feet.

Once on top of the cliff band, you will be on an open slope, shown. Ascending this slope was the most difficult segment of the climb for me. There are no major obstacles and it is not dangerously steep. But the footing is very poor on hardpan with a marbly coating. We were on this slope for about 300 vertical feet. Improve our route by doing an ascending traverse over to the south ridge reef as soon as you can.

At 3,100 feet, we were on the crest of the ridge, shown. Welcome to the long stretch of pleasurable Class 3 scrambling.

Encounter rocks stacked like books on the floor.

Climb right up the books staying on the ridgetop. This image was taken on the descent.

In this image we are nearing the east ridge.

East Ridge to Summit
The east ridge is a row of spikes so we walked along on the south side. At this point I was pretty nervous. Our effort to get here was substantial and now the summit cone looked impossible to me. We approached and started scouting. We found a safe Class 3 pitch in an obvious crack. Looking at the image below, locate the cairn on top of the cone with a white slab boulder beneath it. The crack is just to its right.

This image looks up at the pitch. It was great fun with solid and plentiful holds. Downclimbing was no more difficult. (THW, photo)

This has to be one of our more satisfying summits. The crest is surprisingly roomy with an endless view span. This image looks northwest to more Big Horn Mountains nearby and Harquahala Mountains.

The peak register was placed in 1992. Only one to three parties sign annually. Legendary Bob Packard of Flagstaff (whom we've been chasing around for years), wrote in 1995, "My 173rd Arizona mountain range highpoint." Also in 1995 another person scrawled, "Wish us luck on our way back." My partner wrote, "How did we get up here?"

The key to getting off the mountain is to be an astute observer on the way up. Lacking information, we bumbled around on the ascent, consuming three and a half hours. Reconstructing, even improving our course on the return, we shaved a full hour.

The Big Horn Mountains continue on to southeast, terminating at Burnt Mountain, shown. While civilization is a breath away from the wilderness boundary, Big Horn Peak is rightly destined to remain noble and undomesticated.
(THW, photo)