Travel: From the hamlet of Boulder, climb out of the sweeping turn at Dry Hollow, turn west at the sign for Hells Backbone Road, and measure from here. The turnoff at mile marker 83.1 is about 23 miles east of the town of Escalante. In just 0.1 mile, turn left on an unsigned dirt road. Enter the GSENM, cross the Boulder Landing Strip, and reach the Boulder Mail Trail circular parking lot at 0.6 mile. Circle clockwise and when opposite the entry point, turn left onto unsigned McGath Point Road. It is posted, "4WD Only, Stay On Road." High clearance 4WD is required from here for sand, steepness, and rock. Impassible if wet. At 2.3 miles, bear right at a Y, leaving the McGath Point Road (deep sand from here), and drive onto a large sandstone platform at 2.5 miles, ideal for camping or parking.
Distance and Elevation Gain: 9 miles; 1,700 feet of climbing for the hike as described.
Total Time: 6:00 to 8:00
Difficulty: Off-trail; navigation moderately challenging; mild exposure; hike in cool months and carry all the water you will need.
Map: Calf Creek, UT 7.5' USGS Quad
Latest Date Hiked: May 7, 2020.
Quote: I have lost my way many times in this world, only to return to these rounded, shimmering hills and see myself recreated more beautiful than I could ever believe. Joy Harjo, 2020 United States Poet Laureate
Follow the route offered to two enticing prominences in the slickrock region east of McGath Point. Or, simply follow your whims as you wander over open rock. Let the landscape transform your sense of reality but do keep track of your bearings in this place of solitude. (Thomas Holt Ward, photo)
Route: Hike generally southeast making an effort to stay on the slickrock between McGath Point and Calf Creek. Ascend the north ridge of Peak 6,420'. Do an optional side trip to Point 6,420' either coming or going.
The image below was taken from the camping and parking platform off McGath Point Road, elevation 6,620 feet. Peak 6,420' is the white dome, image-center and McGath Point is on the right. Locate a singletrack leaving from the southeast edge of the platform, drop down to the road, and turn right.
The big four signature plants of the American West greet the day: rabbitbrush, sage, piñon, and juniper. (THW, photo)
At a quarter mile, enter a draw that provides access through the cliff band. Standing here we took a bead on Peak 6,420'. There was some maneuvering to arrive at the base of the climb, but not a lot.
There are plenty of living things besides the rock out here. Impossibly large ponderosa grow in small sand pockets. Make every effort, even if it means taking extra steps, to stay off the cryptobiotic soil. It is a critical stabilizing factor holding dirt and sand against the wind. At 1.2 miles we were alongside Point 6,420' ("Iron Butte"). We were enticed by it the last time we were here so we climbed it on our return. (THW, photo)
To Peak 6,420'
It is free range walking; roam wherever you wish on the infinite sidewalk. It is a self-cleaning, rain and wind-washed landscape. The name "slickrock" was used by early settlers to describe the Navajo Sandstone because of the low traction between horses' metal shoes and the rock's sloping surfaces.
Fossilized dunes are billowing pentagons and hexagons. Iron concretions are scattered about the area.
At 1.7 miles, we crossed a west tributary of Calf Creek. The water dropped through slots and pooled in reflection tanks. (THW, photo)
Further on we crossed our previous route to McGath Point. On that day we forded Calf Creek above the Upper Falls and then climbed McGath simply because it was the highest point in the vicinity. This time we flanked the broad stone prominence on the east. We held the trajectory and came to a major crack.
We walked alongside until we could cross it at 3.1 miles. Now Peak 6,420' was in clear view. We rounded the corner to the right/south, staying high. On the way back we tried a lower route but it had more obstacles.
Next, we encountered a barbed wire fenceline and passed through at an open gate.
Log fences were commonly constructed by cowboys out west for stock management and they go on for great lengths throughout this area. (THW, photo)
We hopped across another west arm of Calf Creek and then cut east to the base of the north ridge. We started climbing at 3.6 miles, 5,900 feet. The friction pitch was gentle with plenty of small ledges and features to assist. Scout around for a comfortable line, making a series of small switchbacks.
We reached a flat less than a hundred feet off the summit, shown. For the safest route we followed the bench around to the right and finished climbing on the west slope. (THW, photo)
The slope is painted with splotches of carmine-hued stone. (THW, photo)
Reach the summit in 4.1 miles. In 2014, we stood on McGath Point, shown, and looked over at Peak 6,420'. It was so appealing we penciled a star on the topo. This is a gold star crest all right. It is broad with a sheer drop on the east.
(THW, photo)
Rising above sheets of stone we could see Boulder Mountain, Waterpocket Fold, the Henry Mountains, shown, Navajo Mountain, and the Straight Cliffs. Tucked down inside the rock were Calf Creek, Sand Hollow, Willow Patch Creek, and Sand Creek.
Lower Calf Creek Falls Overlook
We wondered whether we could see Lower Calf Creek Falls from the west rim. It was a rugged two miles and it was difficult to avoid cryptobiotic soil. Therefore, I have not included our track and recommend people turn around at the peak. (THW, photo)
We explored every small peninsula of rock but couldn't get a visual on the falls. We could hear the water and even excited voices well below. From the exposed edge, shown, I could see the upper half of the falls. My partner got this lucky shot by holding his camera out at arm's length. (THW, photo)
Point 6,420', Iron Butte
Point 6,420' is a relatively humble, flat-topped prominence but its shape and color are appealing, image-right.
The waterway on the west side steps down through a series of ochre-ringed stone tanks. This image was shot from a shallow, bridge-like crossing. (THW, photo)
We climbed through a subtle weakness in the cliff band. If you enjoy scrambling with mild exposure, this is a fun route. We descended on the north ridge which is "just a walk."
Resting on the crest are squared off book blocks. There were no footprints, just gnarled juniper and red earth that matched the stain on the butte's surface. This image looks east into sandstone immensity with Calf Creek below and the Highway 12 Hogback above. (THW, photo)
The little butte offered an opportunity to look back on our route. Pouring over the map we came to the startling realization that we'd climbed two 6,420s on the same hike! We assigned the peak its elevation using the standard approximation technique. The point is numbered on the topo. Why is one a peak and the other a point? A peak requires at least 300 feet of relief on all sides.
Blooming in early May were ephemeral treasures: Indian paintbrush, desert globemallow, cutleaf evening primrose, desert marigold, claret-cup cactus, Parry's penstemon, cliffrose, and this smallflower fishhook. (THW, photo)
An important note from author Steve Allen about protecting endangered National Monuments in Southern Utah.
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